Water Pump Spec

Is there a certain gpm rating that the water pump must flow to use EVANS NPG WATERLESS COOLANT. Using a CSR electric water pump on a drag race engine. Flows 35-37 gpm.

The gpm is based on the actual HP rating of the engine and the amount of restriction in the cooling system. Drag race engine cooling systems are a little different because the pump is actually cooling the engine after the pass is made. If your less than 600 HP try the CSR with only removing the restrictor/thermostat assuming there is one. OR send us a photo of the system for more exact information. Our preference of electric pumps are Meziere HD (55 gpm free flow) units due to their higher volume and the ability to move more coolant at a higher pressure. Also single pass large aluminum tube radiators along with minimal restriction, More Volume is better than more pressure because of Evans high boiling point the increase in pressure does not improve the cooling capacity.

Your email mentions EVANS NPG WATERLESS COOLANT. There are 2 separate products Evans High Performance Coolant (HP) and Evans NPG coolant. If you are planning to use NPG and NOT HP the pump volume does need to be higher then if using HP due to the higher viscosity of the NPG coolant. Radiator design and restriction( hose size ,restrictor size) become more important when using NPG in a electric pump system. For more information please supply a photo of your cooling system and application.


I have a LS3, 480bhp crate engine in my AC Cobra replica. It's only covered 500 miles and has had Evans waterless from day 1.
The question have is that when driving the temperature runs around 95 to 100 degrees C, with the fan cutting in at around 105 degrees C, all looks ok.  But when I stop and switch off, the temperature pushes up to 120 degrees C, and blows off coolant through the 15 lbs pressure cap.  Could I just up the cap pressure?

Temperature range sounds right for an LS 3 with the stock thermostat. The rise in temperature is also normal for the way Evans works. Venting of the 15 psi cap most likely means the system is a little over full. Suggest removing approximately 1 quart from the system. Can you send us a photo for your cooling system to detriment where the cap is located? DO NOT INCREASE THE CAP PRESSURE with out sending in the photo. Typical new car the gauge stops reading when the key is turned off. Assume you have a mechanical gauge that continues to read when the engine is off. Evans will continue to absorb heat when the coolant flow stops showing the increase in temperature on the gauge. Water based coolant does the same thing BUT the water boils and changes to vapor the gauge cannot measure the heat used to create the vapor therefor minimal increase in temperature. As the temperature of Evans increases the expansion rate also increases causing hydraulic pressure and venting the cap. By lowering the coolant level this will give Evans area to expand into and decreasing the hydraulic pressure causing the cap to vent coolant. If you continue to replace the coolant that vents out the system will continue to push it out every time the temperature is reached.

Thanks I feel more comfortable now. The fluid level after blow off is about an inch above the bottom of the tank. (Right header in the pics). From your comments I think I will not top up and try it. 
Thanks for the photos helps me understand the system better. Very nice job also! Try leaving the coolant out and or take a little more out. From what I can see of the plumbing it looks like the right tank is connected to the upper hose this can be some of the problem. The upper hose is the pressure hose so the tank will already have pressure init when you shut i down making it easier to vent the cap. Do not raise the cap pressure in this system when using Evans Coolant. Cap pressure should be  15 psi MAX, as some point this tank should be connected to the lower hose (3/4" hose) and the upper hose connection restricted to approximately 1/4". This changes the location of the of the tank to the suction side of the system but still allows the air to vent out of the upper hose. this should also change the expansion amount due to the pump actually holding the cap closed instead of trying to push it open.

New Engine

I have a 572 ci 1000 hp chevy motor that I just ran on a dyno with water. it has not been installed in the car at present time .What coolant would you suggest for use in this car and how exactly would I be able to get the water out of the block sitting on floor before its totally hooked in car? Do you have any idea how much coolant I would need? probably not since you don't know the radiator that I would be using.Any suggestion s would be greatly appreciated.
With this much horsepower, you will need to use a radiator with a minimum of 2 rows of 1.5” tube or 3 rows of 1” tube width to allow more of the coolant to flow with less restriction. Copper/brass radiators will not keep the HP cool enough. One source for the ones I mentioned is Griffin.  As far as getting the block empty, being that is a BBC, there should be 2 drain plugs on the block, one on each side about an inch above the oil pan rail. Getting those out will allow enough water to be drained, if you feel the systems is almost empty of old coolant, you may install Evans High Performance coolant without using the Evan Prep Fluid. A little less than 6 gallons is needed for this application.

I removed the 2 drain plugs on the bottom of block and to my surprise not a bit of water came out . I tried using a shop vac as you suggested and still no water came out, so I am hopeing there is no water in the block but I can say for sure as I am not sure how the water lays in that part of block. The only time water was in it was when the motor was being dyno. I was told to use a certain type of water thermostat in the motor but I noticed I believe where you said I would no longer need the thermostat. Which should I do. Also since I can find water in block do I trust that and just use the Evans high performance stuff or add something to it? I sure don't want problems if there is some concealed in the block.
This is a common problem with Chevy blocks. When you blew down though the block with the shop vac did air come out? If yes then the drains are open and the block is empty If no follow the procedure below./Take a small screw driver,  or punch and push it into the drain plug hole to break any build up that might have accumulated, it should go in approximately 1 inch past the threads of the plug. This is assuming that your block has a full water jacket and has not been grouted by the machine shop. If you not sure your removed the correct plug please supply a photo showing the side of the block. Normally a GM 572 block (photos attached) has the drain plugs as shown right bank below the core plug are side between the core plugs. If you have something other than the location shown please call 888 990-2665.   The restriction that the thermostat applies to the cooling system is no longer necessary with Evans Waterless Coolant. With 1000 HP you should not have any trouble getting heat in to the engine and on initial fire up in the car I would suggest NO thermostat just to keep the system under control and eliminate any issues when filling the cooling system. When up and running with engine operating normally IF you need a thermostat to stabilize the temperature purchase the High Flow version in the appropriate temperature range from Stewart/EMP.  If this is an aftermarket block pending radiator size the suggested  capacity might be slightly high due to the casting thickness, 4 to 6 gallons of High Performance is close, with block empty Prep Fluid is not needed for this application.

 Subaru EJ22 and Toyota 1HZ engines

I am thinking of using your product in my Subaru with an EJ22 engine. As you may know, Subaru coolant systems are prone to air locks due to the flat 4 engine and high mounted heater. A couple of questions:
Do you have experience using your products in a Subaru with an EJ22 engine?
Anything I should know/modify?
Is the air lock problem likely to be better or worse with your product?
I am thinking of using your product in my Toyota Landcruiser with the 1HZ diesel engine. A couple of questions:
Do you have experience using your products in a Toyota Landcruiser with the 1HZ diesel engine?
Anything I should know/modify?
We have used High Performance Coolant in multiple Subaru applications from stone stock to all out race WRX. With a stock engine and cooling system the air problem is about the same follow the standard procedure and you should be fine. If the engine has been modified the best thing is to start with is an aftermarket improved radiator this will compensate for the increase in horse power.

The Toyota Landcruiser diesel application we have not worked with at this time. Normal circumstances it should be just a coolant change with no special changes needed.
Prep Fluid can be reused if the water content is monitored with a refractometer (Evans part #E2196)  and stays less then 10 %. Prep Fluid works in 2 ways,absorbs water by contact and weight differential, above 10% water the effectiveness of both methods diminishes.

OK, a couple of other things…I read somewhere that if there is, say, 7% water it will boil off into the overflow tank… true or false.
I read somewhere that if there is too much water a corrosive acid is formed… true or false?

Thanks for asking both issues are false! 
Evans Waterless Coolant will give up residual water only if it is above 260°F and more than 6%. At approximately 6% the water is starting to become molecularly bonded to the coolant and will require a temperature above 280°F to separate. This process does take place in the engine at the combustion chamber but the water vapor condenses before reaching the expansion tank where it would vent out. The expansion tank will vary in water content if directly vented to the atmosphere but this water content is different from that in the engine and does vent when the temperature of the expansion tank is above 90°F. This is a result of the hygroscopic nature of Evans Coolant.  The result of to much water in an Evans Waterless System is not an acid but the corrosion that occurs when the water is not inhibited against corrosion. Evans Waterless Coolant is designed to be less than 5% water by volume, the inhibitor package used can tolerate slightly more water contamination than 5% but will not control corrosion beyond 10% by volume. Acids that develop in any coolant are formed by the glycol break down from heat cycles. This acid resulting from glycol break down is the cause of PH change in engine coolants. The PH of Evans waterless coolant PH specification is between 8 and 9, neutral range is 7.


Is your waterless coolant good for a vortech aftercooler and if so what would be the advantage of using your product over regular coolant?
In this case I suggest staying with what your system was designed to use, 50/50, 100% or any other blend of antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors. Aftercoolers typically do not boil the liquid used to transfer heat from the air. The internal combustion engine boils the coolant in the cylinder heads. This is where Evans Waterless Coolant has the advantage, when the coolant boils.

Is Evans Legal for Drag Racing?

I’m really interested in using Evans waterless coolant. I like to take may car to the strip from time to time so I was wondering if Evans’ is legal for use in drag racing?  I see that you sponsor drivers in particular NHRA classes, but I know many tracks and sanctioning bodies require the use of water only, and ethylene glycol coolants are not allowed.
Also, I’m interested in possibly reducing the system pressure in my car, which is a ’73 Trans/Am with a fairly well built 455, automatic, and 3.42 rear gears. Please let me know which produce would be best for my application, and if a reduction in pressure is feasible.
The answer to your pressure question is yes maybe. The cap pressure can be reduced to 7 psi in your system, expansion pressure is reduced to a max of 5 psi, but pump/outlet pressure still varies with engine rpm. Raceing rpm can generate as much as 40 psi just moving the liquid though the system. This pressure depends on what components you have in the current system and how restrictive they are. Copper brass radiator core is more restrictive than an aluminum tube radiator core, double pass radiator is more restrictive than a single pass version,standard thermostat is more restrictive than a high flow thermostat.
NHRA approved Evans Waterless Coolant for use at all National and Divisional races as of July 2017. Evans has also put in place a contingency program with NHRA please see the NHRA section of If you local track still does not allow Ethylene Glycol or has a water only rule then Evans Waterless Coolant is not legal also. This is due to Evans being a blend of glycols formulated to be used without water. If your local track would like to investigate Evans Waterless Coolant have them contact us @860 668-1114

Bi-Metal Engine

Is Evans compatible with aluminum and cast iron? I.e cast iron block with aluminum heads?
I have a Chevy truck with a 454 bb.. runs very warm/hot. Looking to cool it down with your product and an aluminum radiator.

Yes Evans is compatible with a bi-metal engine. Please include some more details about your current temperature range and application. A single pass large tube aluminum radiator is preferred when trying to lower the operating temperature. There are also other changes that can be made depending on the rest of your system and the actual application.

How to get the water out

I have a 565 pump gas BBC that I would like to run your high performance coolant in…. My problem is that I CANT access the block drains to get the rest of the water out… Have LARGE tube headers in the way… My Brodix aluminum block only has 1 drain on each side and cant access them….. Is there any way I can run your product effectively?????  This is Preferred by my track which says NO ANTI FREEZE….. My car is a Street driven car so I cant run straight water due to the winters here in NY… Car sits in garage in winter but still gets to freezing temps in there…. IS THERE ANY WAY I CAN USE YOUR PRODUCTS?????  THANKS FOR YOUR HELP…
If your tract is NHRA sanctioned  for National and Divisional races Evans High Performance has been approved, see contingency section of If not NHRA and a local track the NO ANTIFREEZE rule will create problems for you due to Evans being a blend of glycols. If the local track would like to investigate please have them contact us @ 860 668-1114.

With that out of the way there are a few tricks that can be done to help convert. First remove any restrictions in the system, thermostat restrictor washer, small AN radiator line etc. A large tube (11/4 or larger for the 565) aluminum radiator is best, NO MULTIPLE PASS RADIATORS!  Jack up the back of the car. This is to allow the coolant to flow to the lower hose outlet easier.
Drain the system as good as possible.
Remove upper and lower hose.
With thermostat/restrictor remove blow down though the thermostat housing with a shopvac or leaf blower. High volume air not shop high pressure air.
This should blow most of the old coolant out the lower hose, normally suggest a bucket to put the lower hose in. It's messy!
Do this to the radiator also!
To get everything out of the block pour 2 gallons of Evans PrepFluid in to the block at the thermostat housing, try to get one in each bank by letting the back down and jacking up the opposite side of the car to bias the Prep Fluid to one side then the other. 
Blow the Prep Fluid out the same as before.  
With this completed reconnect all hoses and close any drains.
Fill with Evans High Performance Coolant.
If any thing remains in the system it will be Prep Fluid, IT"S 100% compatable with High Performance Coolant. 
If you need more help please call 888 990-2665

Coolant Additives

I’m assuming the answer is no but can I add something like water wetter to my evans waterless coolant?
As you suspected, the answer is no. Evans Waterless Coolant doesn’t require additional additives, plus without water in the system, additives have no effect. When water boils the vapor (bubbles) prevent coolant to metal contact, this can create hot spots. Water Wetter and any of the other additives for water modify the surface tension of water allowing the bubbles to break away quicker when the coolant/mixure boils. 

Temps up to 230/235

Been dealing with a issue of temps getting up to 230/235 after it is turned off. Bought a base crate motor form blue print engines. 400 cu. in. 510 installed  a high volume water pump, Running a mechanical fan as well as a after market electric fan.Since I had issues of running hot with my old and tired 406,A friend recommended using your product.So I did. I can now drive in much warmer  temps than I use to. No overheating. But the problem I’m having is the motor gets real hoot when I shut it off.Changed them sensor as well as the gauge. Still said it was getting hotter after shutting off.Bought a thermal laser temp gun and that says its not hot at several different test  spots.Blue print engines is stumped. We have been corresponding every other week or so. Never used this product before and was wondering if I’m missing something.Any help would be appreciated.
230/235 is not that big of a problem after you shut off the engine it's referred to heat soak. Reason it's doing this is the coolant circulation has stopped heat is still available to the coolant, Evans absorbs the heat and shows it to you on the gauge. Water based coolant will boil the water and the heat used does not show up on the gauge due to being vapor the temperature increase like Evans does.
First thing to try, if you are using a thermostat remove it completely. Assuming this is a SBC with a carburetor, if EFI might have to use a high flow thermostat from Stewart Components. Second what is the water pump drive ratio? For the street we like the pump over driven at least 25% or higher pending the actual rpm range of the engine. With a higher drive ration the pump turns faster moving more coolant at the lower rpm range (idle). This should remove more heat from the engine before you shut it off. Third possibility an electric fan and or and electric booster pump for the coolant. Leave the fan and pump on for a short time (based on battery life) to help cool the engine during heat soak. Even letting the engine idle down longer will help IF everything I just mentioned is in place.

LS9 engine

My car is a2012 Corvette ZR1 with the oem liquid cool supercharger. Many LS9 had problems when drove hard, the cooling bricks in the supercharger tend to melt because of hot compress air. Should switching  the oem coolant in the supercharger to Evans coolant can help reduce the heat in it?  Have you had any feedback about it?  Only other alternative I know about is only water with water wetter. Don’t want to do any mistake so better ask qualified peoples.
The Corvette supercharger application is a problem that Evans cannot solve. We do not use our fluid in the supercharger of our 2016 ZO6 LT4 test car because of the problems associated with this application. The OEM fluid is a good start I believe it is 60% water, 100% water would be better but corrosion will be a problem. The engine is where Evans High Performance Coolant works better than the OEM fluid. Evans High Performance Coolant is designed for the engine because of the coolant boiling in the combustion chamber location. In normal conditions under high load the supercharger is not boiling the coolant.

Evans Expansion

Does Evans Waterless Coolant expand when heated? If so, how does it compare to conventional coolant expansion? Should I install a coolant catch tank? My application is in power sports - 1999 Kawasaki KX250.
Evans Expands 3-5% when heated this will build hydraulic presser if over filled we suggest leaving the coolant level a little low for this. Conventional coolant will build steam vapor  presser. The catch tank would only really be needed if any would push out until our coolant finds it's level.

Does Evans HP come in smaller containers?

A couple of questions: Do you provide your standard high performance waterless coolant in smaller containers? Or perhaps in a 2.5 gallon size? Or, can you mix the powersports formula with the standard?
The reason I ask is that my car's coolant capacity is 9 quarts, so 2 gallons won't be quite enough. However, if I purchase 3 gallons, (+ 3 gallons of the prep), that's not only a lot more cost, but also a lot of fluids to store or dispose of.
Sorry, we only sell High Performance Coolant in one gallon containers. All Evans Coolants are compatible with each other. 
You could use left over Prep Fluid, it does not have the long life additives in it but, that little bit will
not make a difference. We also suggest to keep some around just in case you need it.

Radiator Cap for Derby Car

I will be running y'all's coolant in my derby car . Which would be best a higher psi radiator cap or a lower one?
Maximum cap pressure should be 13 PSI. Even with the 13 PSI cap you should give the coolant someplace to expand to in a derby car.  I like a large tank 1 to 2 gallons if possible, NO thermostat, NO restrictor washer. Start off with the level at the bottom of the tank so you have maximum capacity for expansion. The hotter Evans coolant runs the more it expands, more than 13 PSI will create problems similar to water under pressure. If you can send us a photo of your system for more specific information.

 Is Evans right for a Prius?

Would your coolant work ok in a 2013 Prius C?
We have installed Evans high Performance in the Prius engine application, we found no benefit to installing it in the battery system.
The engine coolant runs the same as the OEM coolant. Due to the difference in the cooling conditions ( engine boils the coolant batteries do not) and potential other issues with the battery cooling system we do not suggest converting.

Evans Heavy Duty Coolant

Will Evans work in older diesel engines? Answer is yes it will work. 
Better question will it solve overheating in older diesel engines? Answer probably not!
Evans Cooling Systems manufactures a product specifically for the heavy duty wet liner engines, Heavy Duty Coolant (HD) part  #EC61001. HD has been marketed to the heavy duty industry for a number of years it is still in production but currently Evans Cooling Systems marketing concentration is elsewhere. Older heady duty diesel engines that experience overheating normally have an existing problem, dirty cooling system, clogged radiator, cracked head, leaking gaskets are just a few examples. Evans HD is only the liquid component of the system and to claim that we can solve hardware problems would be erroneous. To clean the system enough to convert to Evans HD requires significant time and resources that would be wasted if the original problem is not fixed. It would be time and money better spent finding and repairing the problem or overhauling the engine completely. After an overhaul would also be a better time to install Evans HD with the system clean and 100% efficient.

How to drain the old coolant

I own a 1979 Honda Accord with CVCC engine.  I cannot find an engine drain plug.  What do you guys suggest I do in this case to remove all water from engine.
We suggest you drain as much as possible of the old coolant by disconnecting the hoses and by blowing air through the radiator opening, (you can a shop vac or an electric leaf blower). Fill the system with Evans Prep Fluid, then run the engine for about 30 minutes, repeat the drain process above. Make sure you run the heater when using the Prep fluid.  Evans Prep Fluid is designed to bring the water content down and its compatible with all of Evans Coolants, so you don't need to worry about a small amount of Prep left in the block. At this point you might have a maximum of 3-5% water content, which we call a successful conversion.

Anode Installation

Is an anode rod ( in the drain plug )on the radiator needed with you product ?
With Evans waterless coolant installed properly with a water content of less than 3% and a voltage test of less than .01 volts in the coolant a sacrificial anode is not necessary.

Which coolant should I use?

What is the differences in your High Performance Coolant and the Powersports Coolant?   I need a little more than the half gallon the Powersports comes in but don't want to use the wrong stuff.   This would be for my Honda trx450r.
There is a slight difference between High Performance and PowerSports in the formulation. The difference is for the smaller high stressed engines of the ATV/UTV and motorcycle/snowmobile market. For your application I would suggest the 1/2 gallon of PowerSports and a 1/2 gallon of Prep Fluid. Use the some of the Prep Fluid to help convert the system and the balance to top up the PowerSports fill as needed. The purpose of Prep Fluid is that it is 100% compatible with Evans Waterless Coolants across the product line and will help remove water from the system before converting to Evans coolant. Prep Fluid is not intended to be a stand alone coolant BUT can be used to top off a system in limited quantity.

Ok the engine is apart and will be completely free of any water or old coolant.  New radiator and lines so nothing in those either.  But your saying I can add prep fluid with the Powersports Coolant to get the amount that I need?  

Yes that is correct! Prep can be used to top off PowerSports. For that matter Prep can be used to top off any of Evans Waterless Coolants, keep the percentage to less than 25% of the system capacity.

Which coolant do your recommend?

I have a Ford FE (big block) 427 high performance engine, that constantly boils over. Which coolant would you recommend?
You want to use Evans High Performance coolant for this application.  What radiator are you using? Is it aluminum or copper/brass? How much HP are you making? What type fan? Electric of belt driven? These questions will help me figure out if our coolant will make a difference.

Ron Davis aluminum radiator with a 13" high com flow puller electric fan.  The fan covers about 70% of the radiator. 500HP I just ordered a 165 high flow thermostat with 3 3/8 bypass holes.

With this application and the components you have when you install the Evans High Performance coolant leave the new thermostat completely out of the systems. That's correct NO THERMOSTAT, NO RESTRICTOR, NOTHING! When the FE boils over what is the temperature on the gauge? Do you have the old FE type surge tank in the upper hose? What is the Radiator cap pressure?

Boils over around 235-245. Yes…Old FE surge tank with an overflow line. I believe it’s a 35psi cap. I live at the top of a hill, so it’s the most hot when I get it home and that’s when it boils over.

First thing I can suggest is have the pressure cap checked. It should not overflow at those temperature with a 35 lb cap. 235°F is HOT but it should not open the cap. To use Evans coolant the cap pressure must be changed to 13lb or 17lb max. Reason is Evans High Performance has a 375° F boiling point, it does not need the pressure and we do not want the pressure raising the boiling point any higher. This means Evans High Performance also does not need the thermostat as a restriction like 50/50 does. In your case remove it also max flow is what we want to help cool the engine in this case.

Rad Cap Question

I am going to put Evans coolant in my 2017 honda crf 450 and was wondering if the stock rad cap would be fine or if I should get a different pressured one and if so what pressure of cap to run?
Our coolant doesn't rely on system pressure to raise the boiling point, so a stock cap will work just fine. For riders who already have a high pressure cap, I recommend going back to stock just to relieve a little stress on the system. Our coolant expands about 7% at operating temperature, so it will build pressure up to what the cap is rated for. Using either a stock cap or a higher pressure one will both work fine. 

Engine Overheating

I just recently purchased your waterless coolant and was excited to use it for the protection from corrosion factor. After I did a flush and drain and let everything dry out I installed the coolant. After I bled out the system and ran the engine I was over 225 degrees at idle, before I did the install I was never over 180 on the hottest day in summer. I even tried a new 160 degree thermostat and still no difference. Is there any suggestions on why your product is running this much hotter in my engine? This is a 383 stroker with dual electric fan radiator and stock water pump.
First off sounds like there is still some air in the system. 383 Small block Chevy?

At this temperature does the coolant expand into the expansion tank?
What type of radiator?
How much horsepower?
Try removing the thermostat completely.  This can be done with Evans keep in mind NO WATER in the system. This also helps the air move out of the system easier.

I have vacuumed out the system with an airlift tool so there should be very little if any air in the system. And coolant doesn't push into the overflow, and the motor is a Chevy. I'm not positive on the radiator but I believe it's a walker radiator. The horsepower should be around 600, and what would be the reasoning for removing the thermostat, does Evans need more circulation in the system?

This is where Evans waterless technology is different than the 50/50 antifreeze. Evans does not require the pressure that the thermostat puts in the system. This pressure is used to keep the water from boiling, no water to boil no pressure needed. With the potential of the walker radiator to have small tubes we want the radiator to be the restriction, if it is a walker radiator and has small tube (3/8" or smaller) or is a multiple pass version Evans High Performance Coolant will not lower the operating temperature. For 600 HP we suggest a minimum of 2 rows of 11/4" aluminum tube with a core frontal area of 1 sq/in per cu/in of engine displacement. If the radiator has to be smaller the core tube size needs to increase to 2 rows of 11/2" or 3 rows of 1" aluminum tube.
If the coolant is not moving to the expansion tank what is the cap pressure and where is the cap located? What type of vehicle are you working on?

We are considering converting our Kubota tractors over to Evans Coolant.  

We plan to start with a L6060 Kubota HST (4wd) with a cooling system capacity of 32.9 L (8.69 gallons). 
I have several questions: 
  1. How much prep fluid do you recommend?
  2. Should we change the pressure cap and if so, what should the pressure release setting of the new cap be?
  3. Should we change the thermostat?  What should the replacement thermostat be?

We are constantly overworking the engines of our tractors, so for the 62 hp engine, would you recommend the high performance or heavy duty coolant?
The difference between High Performance and Heavy Duty application is the cylinder liner type. Heavy Duty is designed for wet cylinder liner applications the inhibitor package is different, High Performance is for everything else. I could not determine what the engine is for your L6060.  Key to the quantity of Prep Fluid is if there is a block drain. If yes drain the block, remove the thermostat and blow (leaf blower or Shop vac on reverse work best, high volume air) down though the block with the drain open. This will remove all the old coolant, pour 1 gallon of prep Fluid into the block with he drain closed when done remove drain and blow again to remove Prep Fluid. IF there is no drain plug follow the same procedure as above but fill the system and run the engine up to temperature. When cool drain and blowout with lower hose removed from radiator. Most inline engine will drain from the lower hose fairly well even without a block drain 1 to 2 gallons of Prep Fluid should be sufficient if blown out correctly. The pressure cap on your system does not need to be changed, adjust the level properly so the coolant does not expand and fill the top tank of the radiator at hot operating temperature. If you can find one a 13 psi cap would be the max and min pressure setting. The stock thermostat is fine, if there is one that is lower in temperature it might be beneficial or  in hot weather the thermostat could be removed completely. The thermostat will need to be replace for cold weather operation. If you remove the thermostat you must fined and plug the thermostat bypass circuit, it is typically a small hose or an internal passage.

Here's the response from our Kubota service manager who was willing to give Evans coolant a try until he talked with Kubota.  I wonder if there is anyway they could install Evans Coolant in a new tractor at the factory.  Overheating is a serious issue for us.
Gerry, I got in contact with Kubota & also read over what Evans sent you.  These tier four engines have coolant running through the system to be used in the regeneration process  (more than the block) so I can’t bypass the thermostat.  There isn’t a block drain & access to the thermostat is not convenient.  At this point I am thinking I can’t perform this due to the newer style engine.  

1976 TR-6

The under hood temperature of my car runs very hot, so hot in fact that I have a persistent problem with the fuel in my carbs percolating. Please note that I do have a new rad with an electric fan, I also have a custom made heat shield.
Will your product keep my engine running cooler to the point that it will keep my engine running cooler and as a result of that keep the temperature inside the engine bay cooler ?
Typically excessive under hood temperature is due to exhaust temperature  not the actual engine temperature.  Looking into free flowing exhaust and wrapping the exhaust would show you a better decrease in this temperature. Evans High Performance Coolant will run about the same temperature as your current coolant without any changes to the cooling system. Depending on the type of radiator and fan you have the potential is there to lower the operating temperature by making changes to pump flow and air flow. This would only decrease the operating temperature by 10 to 20 degrees at best. Evans High Performance has the ability to protect the engine under these circumstances but I will not guarantee a decrease in under hood temps. Keep in mind that the radiator rejects the engine heat into the air that comes into the engine compartment, moving the air though the engine compartment will improve the under hood temperatures.If you like send us a photo of your engine compartment, radiator and fan combination maybe we can make some suggestion for improvemnt.

Thank you very much for your prompt response, it's appreciated. With your recommendation I have ordered a an exhaust blanket and wrap. I also ordered a starter blanket that I will modify to cover the carb fuel bowls. Hopefully this will do the trick.

Evans Freezing Point

Does your product prevent freezing? What is the temp range?
Evans High Performance Coolant does not freeze operating range is from -40ºF to 260ºF. Key is to removal of water from the systems Evans Waterless Coolant contracts instead of expanding like water does in freezing temperatures.

Evans Waterless in Ram Cummings 6.7 Diesel

I have a 2013 Ram 2500 6.7 Diesel and I’m very seriously considering using your Waterless Coolant in my truck.  I have had some comments though about how it would work in a Diesel engine that has an exhaust cooling system that uses the engines water coolant to cool the exhaust.My personal mechanic wasn’t sure of how your product would work in that.  I can’t see how it would be a problem but then I’m not sure.  Have you had any experience with your Waterless coolant being used in modern Diesels or do you have any information about any adverse effects?  I can’t imagine that it would cause any problems as it is a coolant that works in other applications.Would love to have your input on this before I buy the product and install it.
For some reason unknown to us we do not get a lot of 6.7L Cummins application the few we have done worked just fine. We have done multiple 5.9L Cummins, 6.7L Ford, 6.0L For 7.3L Ford  and the GM  Dura Max over the years with success.The EGR system in stock form introduces more heat in to the coolant, only when the horsepower has been increase above stock level does it become a problem. At that point we suggest an aftermarket cooler that can handle the increased capacity.

Mine is totally stock so I should be able to switch to your coolant without any problems, correct?
That is correct! Keep in mind you must drain the system completely and fill with only Evans high Performance Coolant. If mileage is over 100,000 a chemical flush is suggested to clean the system.If over 250,000 I would not convert due to too much residual corrosion and antifreeze drop out.The 6.7L is a complex system and does not have a block drain please read the 5.9L Cummins instructions and review the Heavy duty instuctions on

Mine is a 2013 so I only have 40,000 miles on it.I assume that in an emergency if you needed more coolant you could put water in, but I’ll just carry an extra gallon yours in the truck just as a precaution.I have read the instruction about using your prep fluid after draining the water and then drain the prep fluid and install the Evans Coolant.  And expensive proposition as the 6.7 takes something like 6 or 7 gallons but if I get a wee bit better cooling I’m up for it.

Did you read the 5.9L Cummins instruction? Typically only one gallon of PREP is required to do this type of conversion. If you cannot find them we can email them. The 6.7L inline engine does not need to be filled and ran to convert properly.  At 40,000 that is a good time to start with Evans High Performance. Do not expect the operating temperature to change much but it will be more stable. You will also see the gauge react quicker to load and ambient air changes this is normal due to the lack of boiling in the system without water.


I plan to use your coolant when I install the new stroker engine in my 66 Mustang, the engine is dry as is the radiator, the heater core does have some coolant remaining in it at this time. My plan is to use a utility pump to circulate fresh water through the heater to remove and remaining coolant mix and sediment that might be in there. Then to use a shop vac to evac what might remain, I do then plan to use your prep fluid to ensure no water remains behind. I will again use the shop vac to remove all the prep fluid possible and follow up with cautious use of compressed air to dry it out. Do the coolant jugs include a test strip to verify that the water percentage s below your recommendation, or are single strips available for purchase? Thank you for your assistance.
Conversion process sounds very good and will net you a water percentage below 3%. Test strips are no longer available. We do offer a low cost refractometer to test Evans coolant with part#E2196 @ $29.95, we also offer a testing service at NO CHARGE other than shipping to get it here. For Free testing we need 1 ounce of coolant in a clean, dry, screw on lid container inside a zip lock bag. Mailinf address is Evans Cooling Systems, PO BOX 434, Parkerford, PA 19457. My bigger concern is that your 66 Mustang cooling system is compatible with Evan High Performance Coolant. How much horse power does your engine make? What cubic inch is your engine and what block is it based on? What type of pump? What type of radiator do you have aluminum or copper brass? Do you know the tube size and number of rows?  Did you change the pump drive ratio if it's a mechanical pump? Carbureted or fuel injected? This all adds up when building a cooling system for the early Mustang that will operate in the proper temperature range.
Well that is good news on my prep ideas. It is a 347 stroker Ford 5.0 roller cam block, the bore is 0.040 over, horsepower should be in the 425 area. I have the Edelbrock water pump, I have an aluminum custom made radiator, I cannot remember how many rows it has, I am using a Spal electric cooling fan. A Holley HP EFI system delivers the fuel, I used a PWM controller from the C6 Corvette to control fan speed. The Holley system is setup to watch the coolant temp by it's sensor. Also I have a Hall Effect vehicle speed sensor, that data is sent to the Holley and using the PWM controller, the fan will adjust to vehicle speed and coolant temps as needed. Here is a link to what I copied from another guys idea. If you scroll down to post #32 he has a link to a YouTube video showing how the system works. I can say this, the previous engine was a 331 stroker, I had all of the same parts except a MassAirflow injection system and a FlowKooler water pump, I do have the March under drive pulleys. The fan was controlled by a Spal temp sensor only. The indicated coolant temp hovered always near the 200 degree mark even when sitting in traffic.  
Everything sounds like it should work GO FOR IT! If you have more questions please contact us.

New Aluminum Radiator
I am about to replace my 30 + year old stock radiator on my TR6. I am using your product in my stock radiator and wanted to know if you have any data about your product in an aluminum radiator?

We actually prefer an aluminum radiator over the copper brass version. I have one from Wizzard cooling in an MGA that works well. Took some work to get it in due to thicker core(2 row 1") but was worth it.

Sebring Convertible 2005 2.7 liter

I have a 2005 Sebring Convertible with the notorious 2.7 liter V6. You may know that the design of the water pump and gasket was at fault for many early failures on this engine.
Because Evans Coolant does not add pressure to the Colling system – I am thinking that Evans could extend the life of the engine – eliminating the possibility of a head gasket blowing or even extending the life of the radiator. Note, I have not had any trouble with this engine. Am I on to something???? I also have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 liter V8 that recently blew its head gasket. I will be replacing it and the radiator soon. Would you recommend Evans?
The Jeep would be a prime candidate with new radiator and head gasket repaired. The Sebring is a prime candidate for conversion but the reason your interested in might not be the best. Here is the issue which applies to the Jeep also if your vehicles have less than 50,000 on them it's Evans is nothing more than a fluid change 60,000 plus the system should be clean with a chemical flush to ensure removal of all the original antifreeze and corrosion that has built up over the last 12 to 13 years. For example IF the Jeep blew the head gasket and has more than 100.000 miles I would not suggest the conversion if only 1 head gasket is fixed. Potential is for the other too blow in the foreseeable future and loose or contaminate the balance of Evans Coolant in the system. This could also happen quicker due to the low surface tension that make Evans High Performance work.
Although Evans High Performance Coolant does not generate pressure like waterbased coolant the water pump still generated pressure moving the coolant though the system. System pressure can be less overall but not to the point it will solve a design problem. There is the potential to lower the pressure cap setting but this must be done carefully and if a low pressure cap is not available it can not be done correctly.

Operating Temperature

Will Evans coolant lower or raise the  operating temperature?

Depending on what the aapplication is it will normally run about the same temperature as 50/50 antifreeze. Pleas describe your current application for a better insight to what Evans can do. Vehicle type, year, engine size and horsepower, radiator type, temperature range it currently runs.

Expansion Tank

I am building a custom bike that currently has an expansion tank - I would like to use Evans Waterless Coolant and was wondering whether I can remove the expansion tank from the cooling system?
My understanding is that pressure, boil over and air/steam build up would not occur using Evans - so what purpose does the expansion tank perform?
Any advice would be appreciated.
It can be done both ways with or without the expansion tank.

Without the tank the coolant level has to be set in the radiator so that when the Evans gets hot and expands there is still room under the cap. This keeps the pressure from building up and opening the cap. Under severe conditions the Evans could still expand more and vent coolant. This is not considered boiling over just that the system is to full, do not add any coolant back if this occurs maybe even take some more out to allow more space in the radiator.
With an expansion tank the radiator should be filled to the top and the overflow line connected to the bottom of the expansion tank or go in the top and extend to the bottom. This version allows the coolant to expand into the tank and keep the radiator full at all times. Expansion tank should be sized so that there is an air space for further expansion if needed. Pressure cap an be on the radiator or on the tank it all depends on how you want to set it up.
If you need more detail a photo of what your working on would be helpful.

Prep Fluid

I have a 2009 chevy silverado 5.3. How much prep fluid will i need not sure how much fluid my truck holds
Key to the 5.3L Chevy is the block drains there is 1 on each side, they have a hex socket type plug. Remove them, drain the radiator and the heater core blowout with shop vac (high volume air) and you do not need Prep Fluid. Or 1 to 2 gallons of Prep Fluid will do the perfect  conversion buy just pouring it into the system (block drains open)  after the initial draining. Let it work it's way to the block drains without running the engine and blow it out as before. This can be done with the heater core and the radiator. 
System capacity is between 4 and 5 gallons pending your exact application. Without removal of the block drains you will need 5 to 6 gallons of Prep Fluid due to the 5.3L being a V8 the system does not drain completely below the water pump. System capacity is between 4 and 5 gallons pending your exact application. Drain all the components, blow out the system with high volume air,  fill with Prep Fluid run up to normal operating temperature to get the thermostat open, allow to cool, drain and blow out the Prep Fluid. Might have to be done a second time depending how much you drained the first time. Suggest measuring what you drain initially to have a good idea of the drained capacity and the quantity remaining. Then fill with Evans High Performance Coolant. Do not forget to drain the expansion tank!