Rad Cap Question

I am going to put Evans coolant in my 2017 honda crf 450 and was wondering if the stock rad cap would be fine or if I should get a different pressured one and if so what pressure of cap to run?

Our coolant doesn't rely on system pressure to raise the boiling point, so a stock cap will work just fine. For riders who already have a high pressure cap, I recommend going back to stock just to relieve a little stress on the system. Our coolant expands about 7% at operating temperature, so it will build pressure up to what the cap is rated for. Using either a stock cap or a higher pressure one will both work fine.


Engine Overheating

I just recently purchased your waterless coolant and was excited to use it for the protection from corrosion factor. After I did a flush and drain and let everything dry out I installed the coolant. After I bled out the system and ran the engine I was over 225 degrees at idle, before I did the install I was never over 180 on the hottest day in summer. I even tried a new 160 degree thermostat and still no difference. Is there any suggestions on why your product is running this much hotter in my engine? This is a 383 stroker with dual electric fan radiator and stock water pump.
First off sounds like there is still some air in the system. 383 Small block Chevy?

At this temperature does the coolant expand into the expansion tank?
What type of radiator?
How much horsepower?
Try removing the thermostat completely.  This can be done with Evans keep in mind NO WATER in the system. This also helps the air move out of the system easier.

I have vacuumed out the system with an airlift tool so there should be very little if any air in the system. And coolant doesn't push into the overflow, and the motor is a Chevy. I'm not positive on the radiator but I believe it's a walker radiator. The horsepower should be around 600, and what would be the reasoning for removing the thermostat, does Evans need more circulation in the system?

This is where Evans waterless technology is different than the 50/50 antifreeze. Evans does not require the pressure that the thermostat puts in the system. This pressure is used to keep the water from boiling, no water to boil no pressure needed. With the potential of the walker radiator to have small tubes we want the radiator to be the restriction, if it is a walker radiator and has small tube (3/8" or smaller) or is a multiple pass version Evans High Performance Coolant will not lower the operating temperature. For 600 HP we suggest a minimum of 2 rows of 11/4" aluminum tube with a core frontal area of 1 sq/in per cu/in of engine displacement. If the radiator has to be smaller the core tube size needs to increase to 2 rows of 11/2" or 3 rows of 1" aluminum tube.
If the coolant is not moving to the expansion tank what is the cap pressure and where is the cap located? What type of vehicle are you working on?

We are considering converting our Kubota tractors over to Evans Coolant.  

We plan to start with a L6060 Kubota HST (4wd) with a cooling system capacity of 32.9 L (8.69 gallons). 
I have several questions: 
  1. How much prep fluid do you recommend?
  2. Should we change the pressure cap and if so, what should the pressure release setting of the new cap be?
  3. Should we change the thermostat?  What should the replacement thermostat be?

We are constantly overworking the engines of our tractors, so for the 62 hp engine, would you recommend the high performance or heavy duty coolant?
The difference between High Performance and Heavy Duty application is the cylinder liner type. Heavy Duty is designed for wet cylinder liner applications the inhibitor package is different, High Performance is for everything else. I could not determine what the engine is for your L6060.  Key to the quantity of Prep Fluid is if there is a block drain. If yes drain the block, remove the thermostat and blow (leaf blower or Shop vac on reverse work best, high volume air) down though the block with the drain open. This will remove all the old coolant, pour 1 gallon of prep Fluid into the block with he drain closed when done remove drain and blow again to remove Prep Fluid. IF there is no drain plug follow the same procedure as above but fill the system and run the engine up to temperature. When cool drain and blowout with lower hose removed from radiator. Most inline engine will drain from the lower hose fairly well even without a block drain 1 to 2 gallons of Prep Fluid should be sufficient if blown out correctly. The pressure cap on your system does not need to be changed, adjust the level properly so the coolant does not expand and fill the top tank of the radiator at hot operating temperature. If you can find one a 13 psi cap would be the max and min pressure setting. The stock thermostat is fine, if there is one that is lower in temperature it might be beneficial or  in hot weather the thermostat could be removed completely. The thermostat will need to be replace for cold weather operation. If you remove the thermostat you must fined and plug the thermostat bypass circuit, it is typically a small hose or an internal passage.

Here's the response from our Kubota service manager who was willing to give Evans coolant a try until he talked with Kubota.  I wonder if there is anyway they could install Evans Coolant in a new tractor at the factory.  Overheating is a serious issue for us.
Gerry, I got in contact with Kubota & also read over what Evans sent you.  These tier four engines have coolant running through the system to be used in the regeneration process  (more than the block) so I can’t bypass the thermostat.  There isn’t a block drain & access to the thermostat is not convenient.  At this point I am thinking I can’t perform this due to the newer style engine.  

1976 TR-6

The under hood temperature of my car runs very hot, so hot in fact that I have a persistent problem with the fuel in my carbs percolating. Please note that I do have a new rad with an electric fan, I also have a custom made heat shield.
Will your product keep my engine running cooler to the point that it will keep my engine running cooler and as a result of that keep the temperature inside the engine bay cooler ?
Typically excessive under hood temperature is due to exhaust temperature  not the actual engine temperature.  Looking into free flowing exhaust and wrapping the exhaust would show you a better decrease in this temperature. Evans High Performance Coolant will run about the same temperature as your current coolant without any changes to the cooling system. Depending on the type of radiator and fan you have the potential is there to lower the operating temperature by making changes to pump flow and air flow. This would only decrease the operating temperature by 10 to 20 degrees at best. Evans High Performance has the ability to protect the engine under these circumstances but I will not guarantee a decrease in under hood temps. Keep in mind that the radiator rejects the engine heat into the air that comes into the engine compartment, moving the air though the engine compartment will improve the under hood temperatures.If you like send us a photo of your engine compartment, radiator and fan combination maybe we can make some suggestion for improvemnt.

Thank you very much for your prompt response, it's appreciated. With your recommendation I have ordered a an exhaust blanket and wrap. I also ordered a starter blanket that I will modify to cover the carb fuel bowls. Hopefully this will do the trick.

Evans Freezing Point

Does your product prevent freezing? What is the temp range?
Evans High Performance Coolant does not freeze operating range is from -40ºF to 260ºF. Key is to removal of water from the systems Evans Waterless Coolant contracts instead of expanding like water does in freezing temperatures.

Evans Waterless in Ram Cummings 6.7 Diesel

I have a 2013 Ram 2500 6.7 Diesel and I’m very seriously considering using your Waterless Coolant in my truck.  I have had some comments though about how it would work in a Diesel engine that has an exhaust cooling system that uses the engines water coolant to cool the exhaust.My personal mechanic wasn’t sure of how your product would work in that.  I can’t see how it would be a problem but then I’m not sure.  Have you had any experience with your Waterless coolant being used in modern Diesels or do you have any information about any adverse effects?  I can’t imagine that it would cause any problems as it is a coolant that works in other applications.Would love to have your input on this before I buy the product and install it.
For some reason unknown to us we do not get a lot of 6.7L Cummins application the few we have done worked just fine. We have done multiple 5.9L Cummins, 6.7L Ford, 6.0L For 7.3L Ford  and the GM  Dura Max over the years with success.The EGR system in stock form introduces more heat in to the coolant, only when the horsepower has been increase above stock level does it become a problem. At that point we suggest an aftermarket cooler that can handle the increased capacity.

Mine is totally stock so I should be able to switch to your coolant without any problems, correct?
That is correct! Keep in mind you must drain the system completely and fill with only Evans high Performance Coolant. If mileage is over 100,000 a chemical flush is suggested to clean the system.If over 250,000 I would not convert due to too much residual corrosion and antifreeze drop out.The 6.7L is a complex system and does not have a block drain please read the 5.9L Cummins instructions and review the Heavy duty instuctions on

Mine is a 2013 so I only have 40,000 miles on it.I assume that in an emergency if you needed more coolant you could put water in, but I’ll just carry an extra gallon yours in the truck just as a precaution.I have read the instruction about using your prep fluid after draining the water and then drain the prep fluid and install the Evans Coolant.  And expensive proposition as the 6.7 takes something like 6 or 7 gallons but if I get a wee bit better cooling I’m up for it.
Did you read the 5.9L Cummins instruction? Typically only one gallon of PREP is required to do this type of conversion. If you cannot find them we can email them. The 6.7L inline engine does not need to be filled and ran to convert properly.  At 40,000 that is a good time to start with Evans High Performance. Do not expect the operating temperature to change much but it will be more stable. You will also see the gauge react quicker to load and ambient air changes this is normal due to the lack of boiling in the system without water.


I plan to use your coolant when I install the new stroker engine in my 66 Mustang, the engine is dry as is the radiator, the heater core does have some coolant remaining in it at this time. My plan is to use a utility pump to circulate fresh water through the heater to remove and remaining coolant mix and sediment that might be in there. Then to use a shop vac to evac what might remain, I do then plan to use your prep fluid to ensure no water remains behind. I will again use the shop vac to remove all the prep fluid possible and follow up with cautious use of compressed air to dry it out. Do the coolant jugs include a test strip to verify that the water percentage s below your recommendation, or are single strips available for purchase? Thank you for your assistance.
Conversion process sounds very good and will net you a water percentage below 3%. Test strips are no longer available. We do offer a low cost refractometer to test Evans coolant with part#E2196 @ $29.95, we also offer a testing service at NO CHARGE other than shipping to get it here. For Free testing we need 1 ounce of coolant in a clean, dry, screw on lid container inside a zip lock bag. Mailinf address is Evans Cooling Systems, PO BOX 434, Parkerford, PA 19457. My bigger concern is that your 66 Mustang cooling system is compatible with Evan High Performance Coolant. How much horse power does your engine make? What cubic inch is your engine and what block is it based on? What type of pump? What type of radiator do you have aluminum or copper brass? Do you know the tube size and number of rows?  Did you change the pump drive ratio if it's a mechanical pump? Carbureted or fuel injected? This all adds up when building a cooling system for the early Mustang that will operate in the proper temperature range.
Well that is good news on my prep ideas. It is a 347 stroker Ford 5.0 roller cam block, the bore is 0.040 over, horsepower should be in the 425 area. I have the Edelbrock water pump, I have an aluminum custom made radiator, I cannot remember how many rows it has, I am using a Spal electric cooling fan. A Holley HP EFI system delivers the fuel, I used a PWM controller from the C6 Corvette to control fan speed. The Holley system is setup to watch the coolant temp by it's sensor. Also I have a Hall Effect vehicle speed sensor, that data is sent to the Holley and using the PWM controller, the fan will adjust to vehicle speed and coolant temps as needed. Here is a link to what I copied from another guys idea. If you scroll down to post #32 he has a link to a YouTube video showing how the system works. I can say this, the previous engine was a 331 stroker, I had all of the same parts except a MassAirflow injection system and a FlowKooler water pump, I do have the March under drive pulleys. The fan was controlled by a Spal temp sensor only. The indicated coolant temp hovered always near the 200 degree mark even when sitting in traffic.  
Everything sounds like it should work GO FOR IT! If you have more questions please contact us.

New Aluminum Radiator

I am about to replace my 30 + year old stock radiator on my TR6. I am using your product in my stock radiator and wanted to know if you have any data about your product in an aluminum radiator?

We actually prefer an aluminum radiator over the copper brass version. I have one from Wizzard cooling in an MGA that works well. Took some work to get it in due to thicker core(2 row 1") but was worth it.

Sebring Convertible 2005 2.7 liter

I have a 2005 Sebring Convertible with the notorious 2.7 liter V6. You may know that the design of the water pump and gasket was at fault for many early failures on this engine.
Because Evans Coolant does not add pressure to the Colling system – I am thinking that Evans could extend the life of the engine – eliminating the possibility of a head gasket blowing or even extending the life of the radiator. Note, I have not had any trouble with this engine. Am I on to something???? I also have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 liter V8 that recently blew its head gasket. I will be replacing it and the radiator soon. Would you recommend Evans?
The Jeep would be a prime candidate with new radiator and head gasket repaired. The Sebring is a prime candidate for conversion but the reason your interested in might not be the best. Here is the issue which applies to the Jeep also if your vehicles have less than 50,000 on them it's Evans is nothing more than a fluid change 60,000 plus the system should be clean with a chemical flush to ensure removal of all the original antifreeze and corrosion that has built up over the last 12 to 13 years. For example IF the Jeep blew the head gasket and has more than 100.000 miles I would not suggest the conversion if only 1 head gasket is fixed. Potential is for the other too blow in the foreseeable future and loose or contaminate the balance of Evans Coolant in the system. This could also happen quicker due to the low surface tension that make Evans High Performance work.
Although Evans High Performance Coolant does not generate pressure like waterbased coolant the water pump still generated pressure moving the coolant though the system. System pressure can be less overall but not to the point it will solve a design problem. There is the potential to lower the pressure cap setting but this must be done carefully and if a low pressure cap is not available it can not be done correctly.

Operating Temperature

Will Evans coolant lower or raise the  operating temperature?
Depending on what the aapplication is it will normally run about the same temperature as 50/50 antifreeze. Pleas describe your current application for a better insight to what Evans can do. Vehicle type, year, engine size and horsepower, radiator type, temperature range it currently runs.

Expansion Tank

I am building a custom bike that currently has an expansion tank - I would like to use Evans Waterless Coolant and was wondering whether I can remove the expansion tank from the cooling system?
My understanding is that pressure, boil over and air/steam build up would not occur using Evans - so what purpose does the expansion tank perform?
Any advice would be appreciated.
It can be done both ways with or without the expansion tank.

Without the tank the coolant level has to be set in the radiator so that when the Evans gets hot and expands there is still room under the cap. This keeps the pressure from building up and opening the cap. Under severe conditions the Evans could still expand more and vent coolant. This is not considered boiling over just that the system is to full, do not add any coolant back if this occurs maybe even take some more out to allow more space in the radiator.
With an expansion tank the radiator should be filled to the top and the overflow line connected to the bottom of the expansion tank or go in the top and extend to the bottom. This version allows the coolant to expand into the tank and keep the radiator full at all times. Expansion tank should be sized so that there is an air space for further expansion if needed. Pressure cap an be on the radiator or on the tank it all depends on how you want to set it up.
If you need more detail a photo of what your working on would be helpful.

Prep Fluid

I have a 2009 chevy silverado 5.3. How much prep fluid will i need not sure how much fluid my truck holds
Key to the 5.3L Chevy is the block drains there is 1 on each side, they have a hex socket type plug. Remove them, drain the radiator and the heater core blowout with shop vac (high volume air) and you do not need Prep Fluid. Or 1 to 2 gallons of Prep Fluid will do the perfect  conversion buy just pouring it into the system (block drains open)  after the initial draining. Let it work it's way to the block drains without running the engine and blow it out as before. This can be done with the heater core and the radiator. 
System capacity is between 4 and 5 gallons pending your exact application. Without removal of the block drains you will need 5 to 6 gallons of Prep Fluid due to the 5.3L being a V8 the system does not drain completely below the water pump. System capacity is between 4 and 5 gallons pending your exact application. Drain all the components, blow out the system with high volume air,  fill with Prep Fluid run up to normal operating temperature to get the thermostat open, allow to cool, drain and blow out the Prep Fluid. Might have to be done a second time depending how much you drained the first time. Suggest measuring what you drain initially to have a good idea of the drained capacity and the quantity remaining. Then fill with Evans High Performance Coolant. Do not forget to drain the expansion tank!