Tech Questions

Classic & Vintage Cars

1929 Ford Model A

I have a 1929 Ford Model A. I'm going to replace the radiator with a new brass one. Can I use Evans Waterless Coolant in my stock 29 ford flat head 4 cylinder? Whats the procedure to remove all the old coolant from the engine and engine block? Has NO heater. Its all stock.

This is the perfect opportunity to convert before you install the new radiator.

  1. Drain the engine block completely.
  2. If needed flush the system with water until clean.
  3. Pour 1 gallon of Evans Prep Fluid into the engine only and blow through the engine with shop vac on reverse to remove Prep Fluid and any residual water.
  4. Install new radiator and fill with Evans High Performance Coolant.
  5. Run engine and monitor coolant level.

Make sure the New radiator has 1/2" tube  some aftermarket radiators use a small tube core 3/8" or smaller. This core design is not compatible with Evans Waterless Coolant.

Model T Application

Can this product be used on a model T with a gravity circulation?

Ford Model T's without a pump rely on the boiling of the water to circulate the hot coolant. This type of cooling system is known as a thermosyphon system (gravity circulation) Evans Waterless Coolant will run hotter than the water system due to the higher boiling point and the lack of vapor that moves the coolant when it boils. We normally do not suggest using Evans Waterless Coolant in this application, although we have had success in the past. This success depends A LOT on the condition of the radiator and the actual temperature range.

62 Corvette - should I remove the thermostat?

Hi, I recently converted my 62 Corvette to Evans high performance, the car seems to run about 20 degrees hotter which I thought might happen, but I was wondering if I should change my thermostat (180degree) or run a restrictor or eliminate the thermostat entirely? 

First thing to try is eliminate the thermostat completely. Let us know what the operating temperature is after that.

63 1/2 Galaxie

I have a 63 1/2 Galaxie with a 429 ci slight overbore, mild cam , flow cooler water pump , champion three row alum radiator, 18 inch , 3500 cfm pusher fan.
Don’t have room to run it as a puller. 180 degree thermostat. The car cools fine out on the road with air on but in town in hot weather tends to overheat enough to boil out some coolant . Gauge will show 225 deg . This makes the car a lot less enjoyable because I’m constantly watching gauges for temperature. I am running a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water . Also I have a Classic Auto Air modern HVAC unit that can shut water off to heater on both my cars . Do you think your coolant will make a significant difference for me? 

I see this exact question a lot as the warmer weather shows up. Evans High Performance Coolant is only the liquid in the system we WILL NOT guarantee a temperature decrease by just changing coolant. The best bang for your buck is to improve the air side of the system (the radiator) by increasing the radiator core capacity. Typically Champion radiators are 3 row of 1/2" or 5/8" aluminum tube. Preferred cores are 2 rows of 1"or 2 rows of 1 1/4" aluminum  tube both have more capacity. The 429ci Ford can easily make 500 HP  minimum core area for 500HP is 2 rows 1 1/4" aluminum tube. Here's the basic math 3X1/2" =1 1/2", 3X5/8"=1 7/8", 2X1=2" and 2X1 1/4" =2 1/2". Without the improvement in airside Evans High Performance Coolant cannot dissipate more heat than the current 50/50 antifreeze. The increase in tube size also improves the coolant flow (less restriction) Evans High Performance Coolant is volume oriented not pressure oriented like water based coolant. The decrease in restriction will maximize the capability of the system to dissipate heat helping to lower the operating temperature. Also single pass versions of the radiator are best double and triple pass versions only increase the restriction. Depending on your actual HP rating a high flow thermostat from Stewart components would also improve the flow rate. IF a carburetor is being used Evans will work with NO thermostat/restrictor. A 375°F boiling point allows us to do this.

Does Evans lower the temperature?

I have a 1990 Jaguar V 12 XJS. I have had everything done to it but it still runs hot. I was looking at Evans Coolant. Is this a good fit?

Typically this application will run the same temperature or slightly hotter as 50/50 antifreeze. To decrease the operating temperature there must be improvements to the system. 

When you refer to "had everything done and still runs hot" what temperature are you referring to and what is the description of everything? 
Normally the best bang for your buck is an aftermarket aluminum radiator with an improved core configuration. NOT aluminum core plastic tank version they are mostly OEM replacements. Evans High Performance Coolant is only the heat transfer medium, in this case there must be an improvement in heat transfer to lower the operating temperature.

1940 Ford 85 hp. & 1963 Studebaker 289 V8 GT Hawk

I would prefer doing both of my classic cars 1940 ford 85 hp. flat head v8 & 1963 studebaker v8 289 cu inch. Can you inform me of how many gallons?

The Stude, I think, is about a 4 gallon total system capacity.  The flathead, a little less- around 3.5 gallons.  If either car has a replacement radiator or any other modifications it may affect this amount a little bit.

Which Evans product should I use?

I am in the process of building a 1963 Nova Chevy II I will be installing a Blue Print 632 C I 800 H P engine crate motor for street driving very little of drag racing if any. What Evans product would you recommend I use and do you have a radiator configuration that you could recommend, what water pump would you recommend? I used Evans coolant in my 383 CI 671 blower motor in a 32 Ford with great success. I do the Hot Rod Power Tour every yean along with other events and I do not want to get stuck in traffic running hot like so many others.

I assume this is a full tube-chassis car?  That tall deck 632 is gonna be a tight fit, as will a suitable radiator!The Evans High performance waterless coolant would be right for this application.In general, Evans works best when coolant flow volume is maximized:  The Gen 5-up blocks and heads are greatly improved over the old 454s for coolant flow. Experience also has taught us- Airflow, Airflow, Airflow!!!

  1. Use a  large aluminum radiator, with 2 rows of 1.5" tubes, or alternatively, 3 rows of 1" tubes.   Get a full-flow core (as opposed to a "multiple pass" design).   A rule of thumb- 1 sq. in. of "core area" for each cubic inch of displacement.    So you want, ideally, 600+ square inches.  That is a BIG radiator, but figure on getting close to that if you can.  A bigger, thicker rad. can also allow up to another half-gallon of coolant capacity, which is a plus!      Run a "normal" rad. cap. and overflow bottle.  7-12 psi is good.  You don't need to hold alot of pressure over the coolant, but you don't want it burping out either.
  2. We usually favor direct mount mechanical fans on "true" street cars.  Go big, and build a proper shroud for it.  If you wind up building a very wide, but relatively short radiator, 2 electric puller fans side-by-side may give better coverage.  Anything you can do to help get that hot air out from under the hood will be worth the effort, too.  Underhood air pressure can "block" the fresh cooler air that's trying to get through the radiator, regardless of fan type.
  3. Likewise, we'd recommend a mechanical water pump with upwards of 90-gallon-per-minute output, but at realistic RPM.  Choose your drive pulley sizes based on the pump manufacturer's rating, to put the pump in its optimum driven RPM range, where you realistically will be running the engine most of the time.  (like, from idle-up-to-cruise speed on the highway).  Typical overdrive 25% faster than crank RPM for a street car.  If you use a serpentine belt setup, whether reverse rotation-pump or not, make sure the belt has enough "wrap" around the pump pulley to minimize the possibility of slippage.  Some systems are lacking in this regard.
  4. Try running no thermostat, no restrictor either, and block off the bypass hose.   This makes all the coolant go to the radiator, all the time.  If you have an EFI computer that needs a thermostat, use a high-flow Stewart or "Robertshaw" style.   Use full size "Big-Block" upper and lower hoses.  Again, think of flow volume.
  5. Don't run big bypass hoses from the back of the heads up to the front of the manifold.  Leave that for the race car guys.  Small vapor/pressure relief lines, similar to what an LS engine has, may be used.
  6. Other considerations for additional heat control:  header wrap (or ceramic coating), run an external engine oil cooler and temp gauge, use a remote trans fluid cooler with its own fan, and temp gauge.

This car may need you to tolerate it running a bit hot, as you are limited in radiator size and airflow with this small car.  The Evans coolant can help you do so safely, as I'm sure you saw in the '32.

Does Evans work in a XKE 1967 4.2

I have a XKE 1967 4.2 that in the hot days in the long run over heat , please tell me does the evens work and can I do that myself. Thanks Manny

Evans High Performance Coolant will protect the engine when running higher operating  temperatures and from boil over. It will not significantly lower the operating temperature by just changing the coolant out. The XKE 4.2L 6 cylinder is prone to this problem in OEM configuration. The only way to achieve this protection is with the installation of the total capacity of the system approximately 3 to 4 gallons. The block radiator and heater core must be drained completely and as clean as possible. There are basic instruction on if this sounds like it is within you ability the coolant change can be done in 1 day.
If you have not upgraded the radiator your best bang for the buck is to install an aluminum aftermarket replacement of at least 2 rows of 1" tube. At the same time upgrade to Evans High Performance Coolant. These statements are made assuming that you do not have other issues creating the high temperatures for example head gasket, timing or carburation problems.


I have a LS3, 480bhp crate engine in my AC Cobra replica. It's only covered 500 miles and has had Evans waterless from day 1.
The question have is that when driving the temperature runs around 95 to 100 degrees C, with the fan cutting in at around 105 degrees C, all looks ok.  But when I stop and switch off, the temperature pushes up to 120 degrees C, and blows off coolant through the 15 lbs pressure cap.  Could I just up the cap pressure?

Temperature range sounds right for an LS 3 with the stock thermostat. The rise in temperature is also normal for the way Evans works. Venting of the 15 psi cap most likely means the system is a little over full. Suggest removing approximately 1 quart from the system. Can you send us a photo for your cooling system to detriment where the cap is located? DO NOT INCREASE THE CAP PRESSURE with out sending in the photo. Typical new car the gauge stops reading when the key is turned off. Assume you have a mechanical gauge that continues to read when the engine is off. Evans will continue to absorb heat when the coolant flow stops showing the increase in temperature on the gauge. Water based coolant does the same thing BUT the water boils and changes to vapor the gauge cannot measure the heat used to create the vapor therefor minimal increase in temperature. As the temperature of Evans increases the expansion rate also increases causing hydraulic pressure and venting the cap. By lowering the coolant level this will give Evans area to expand into and decreasing the hydraulic pressure causing the cap to vent coolant. If you continue to replace the coolant that vents out the system will continue to push it out every time the temperature is reached.

Thanks I feel more comfortable now. The fluid level after blow off is about an inch above the bottom of the tank. (Right header in the pics). From your comments I think I will not top up and try it. 
Thanks for the photos helps me understand the system better. Very nice job also! Try leaving the coolant out and or take a little more out. From what I can see of the plumbing it looks like the right tank is connected to the upper hose this can be some of the problem. The upper hose is the pressure hose so the tank will already have pressure init when you shut i down making it easier to vent the cap. Do not raise the cap pressure in this system when using Evans Coolant. Cap pressure should be  15 psi MAX, as some point this tank should be connected to the lower hose (3/4" hose) and the upper hose connection restricted to approximately 1/4". This changes the location of the of the tank to the suction side of the system but still allows the air to vent out of the upper hose. this should also change the expansion amount due to the pump actually holding the cap closed instead of trying to push it open.

How to drain the old coolant

I own a 1979 Honda Accord with CVCC engine.  I cannot find an engine drain plug.  What do you guys suggest I do in this case to remove all water from engine.

We suggest you drain as much as possible of the old coolant by disconnecting the hoses and by blowing air through the radiator opening, (you can a shop vac or an electric leaf blower). Fill the system with Evans Prep Fluid, then run the engine for about 30 minutes, repeat the drain process above. Make sure you run the heater when using the Prep fluid.  Evans Prep Fluid is designed to bring the water content down and its compatible with all of Evans Coolants, so you don't need to worry about a small amount of Prep left in the block. At this point you might have a maximum of 3-5% water content, which we call a successful conversion.

1976 TR-6

The under hood temperature of my car runs very hot, so hot in fact that I have a persistent problem with the fuel in my carbs percolating. Please note that I do have a new rad with an electric fan, I also have a custom made heat shield.
Will your product keep my engine running cooler to the point that it will keep my engine running cooler and as a result of that keep the temperature inside the engine bay cooler ?

Typically excessive under hood temperature is due to exhaust temperature  not the actual engine temperature.  Looking into free flowing exhaust and wrapping the exhaust would show you a better decrease in this temperature. Evans High Performance Coolant will run about the same temperature as your current coolant without any changes to the cooling system. Depending on the type of radiator and fan you have the potential is there to lower the operating temperature by making changes to pump flow and air flow. This would only decrease the operating temperature by 10 to 20 degrees at best. Evans High Performance has the ability to protect the engine under these circumstances but I will not guarantee a decrease in under hood temps. Keep in mind that the radiator rejects the engine heat into the air that comes into the engine compartment, moving the air though the engine compartment will improve the under hood temperatures.If you like send us a photo of your engine compartment, radiator and fan combination maybe we can make some suggestion for improvemnt.

Thank you very much for your prompt response, it's appreciated. With your recommendation I have ordered a an exhaust blanket and wrap. I also ordered a starter blanket that I will modify to cover the carb fuel bowls. Hopefully this will do the trick.


I plan to use your coolant when I install the new stroker engine in my 66 Mustang, the engine is dry as is the radiator, the heater core does have some coolant remaining in it at this time. My plan is to use a utility pump to circulate fresh water through the heater to remove and remaining coolant mix and sediment that might be in there. Then to use a shop vac to evac what might remain, I do then plan to use your prep fluid to ensure no water remains behind. I will again use the shop vac to remove all the prep fluid possible and follow up with cautious use of compressed air to dry it out. Do the coolant jugs include a test strip to verify that the water percentage s below your recommendation, or are single strips available for purchase? Thank you for your assistance.

Conversion process sounds very good and will net you a water percentage below 3%. Test strips are no longer available. We do offer a low cost refractometer to test Evans coolant with part#E2196 @ $29.95, we also offer a testing service at NO CHARGE other than shipping to get it here. For Free testing we need 1 ounce of coolant in a clean, dry, screw on lid container inside a zip lock bag. Mailinf address is Evans Cooling Systems, PO BOX 434, Parkerford, PA 19457. My bigger concern is that your 66 Mustang cooling system is compatible with Evan High Performance Coolant. How much horse power does your engine make? What cubic inch is your engine and what block is it based on? What type of pump? What type of radiator do you have aluminum or copper brass? Do you know the tube size and number of rows?  Did you change the pump drive ratio if it's a mechanical pump? Carbureted or fuel injected? This all adds up when building a cooling system for the early Mustang that will operate in the proper temperature range.
Well that is good news on my prep ideas. It is a 347 stroker Ford 5.0 roller cam block, the bore is 0.040 over, horsepower should be in the 425 area. I have the Edelbrock water pump, I have an aluminum custom made radiator, I cannot remember how many rows it has, I am using a Spal electric cooling fan. A Holley HP EFI system delivers the fuel, I used a PWM controller from the C6 Corvette to control fan speed. The Holley system is setup to watch the coolant temp by it's sensor. Also I have a Hall Effect vehicle speed sensor, that data is sent to the Holley and using the PWM controller, the fan will adjust to vehicle speed and coolant temps as needed. Here is a link to what I copied from another guys idea. If you scroll down to post #32 he has a link to a YouTube video showing how the system works. I can say this, the previous engine was a 331 stroker, I had all of the same parts except a MassAirflow injection system and a FlowKooler water pump, I do have the March under drive pulleys. The fan was controlled by a Spal temp sensor only. The indicated coolant temp hovered always near the 200 degree mark even when sitting in traffic.  
Everything sounds like it should work GO FOR IT! If you have more questions please contact us.

New Aluminum Radiator

I am about to replace my 30 + year old stock radiator on my TR6. I am using your product in my stock radiator and wanted to know if you have any data about your product in an aluminum radiator?

We actually prefer an aluminum radiator over the copper brass version. I have one from Wizzard cooling in an MGA that works well. Took some work to get it in due to thicker core(2 row 1") but was worth it.

Muscle Cars & Hot Rods

New Engine

I have a 572 ci 1000 hp chevy motor that I just ran on a dyno with water. it has not been installed in the car at present time .What coolant would you suggest for use in this car and how exactly would I be able to get the water out of the block sitting on floor before its totally hooked in car? Do you have any idea how much coolant I would need? probably not since you don't know the radiator that I would be using.Any suggestion s would be greatly appreciated.

With this much horsepower, you will need to use a radiator with a minimum of 2 rows of 1.5” tube or 3 rows of 1” tube width to allow more of the coolant to flow with less restriction. Copper/brass radiators will not keep the HP cool enough. One source for the ones I mentioned is Griffin.  As far as getting the block empty, being that is a BBC, there should be 2 drain plugs on the block, one on each side about an inch above the oil pan rail. Getting those out will allow enough water to be drained, if you feel the systems is almost empty of old coolant, you may install Evans High Performance coolant without using the Evan Prep Fluid. A little less than 6 gallons is needed for this application.

I removed the 2 drain plugs on the bottom of block and to my surprise not a bit of water came out . I tried using a shop vac as you suggested and still no water came out, so I am hoping there is no water in the block but I can say for sure as I am not sure how the water lays in that part of block. The only time water was in it was when the motor was being dyno. I was told to use a certain type of water thermostat in the motor but I noticed I believe where you said I would no longer need the thermostat. Which should I do. Also since I can find water in block do I trust that and just use the Evans high performance stuff or add something to it? I sure don't want problems if there is some concealed in the block.
This is a common problem with Chevy blocks. When you blew down though the block with the shop vac did air come out? If yes then the drains are open and the block is empty If no follow the procedure below./Take a small screw driver,  or punch and push it into the drain plug hole to break any build up that might have accumulated, it should go in approximately 1 inch past the threads of the plug. This is assuming that your block has a full water jacket and has not been grouted by the machine shop. If you not sure your removed the correct plug please supply a photo showing the side of the block. Normally a GM 572 block (photos attached) has the drain plugs as shown right bank below the core plug are side between the core plugs. If you have something other than the location shown please call 888 990-2665.   The restriction that the thermostat applies to the cooling system is no longer necessary with Evans Waterless Coolant. With 1000 HP you should not have any trouble getting heat in to the engine and on initial fire up in the car I would suggest NO thermostat just to keep the system under control and eliminate any issues when filling the cooling system. When up and running with engine operating normally IF you need a thermostat to stabilize the temperature purchase the High Flow version in the appropriate temperature range from Stewart/EMP.  If this is an aftermarket block pending radiator size the suggested  capacity might be slightly high due to the casting thickness, 4 to 6 gallons of High Performance is close, with block empty Prep Fluid is not needed for this application.

Temps up to 230/235

Been dealing with a issue of temps getting up to 230/235 after it is turned off. Bought a base crate motor form blue print engines. 400 cu. in. 510 installed  a high volume water pump, Running a mechanical fan as well as a after market electric fan.Since I had issues of running hot with my old and tired 406,A friend recommended using your product.So I did. I can now drive in much warmer  temps than I use to. No overheating. But the problem I’m having is the motor gets real hoot when I shut it off.Changed them sensor as well as the gauge. Still said it was getting hotter after shutting off.Bought a thermal laser temp gun and that says its not hot at several different test  spots.Blue print engines is stumped. We have been corresponding every other week or so. Never used this product before and was wondering if I’m missing something.Any help would be appreciated.

230/235 is not that big of a problem after you shut off the engine it's referred to heat soak. Reason it's doing this is the coolant circulation has stopped heat is still available to the coolant, Evans absorbs the heat and shows it to you on the gauge. Water based coolant will boil the water and the heat used does not show up on the gauge due to being vapor the temperature increase like Evans does.
First thing to try, if you are using a thermostat remove it completely. Assuming this is a SBC with a carburetor, if EFI might have to use a high flow thermostat from Stewart Components. Second what is the water pump drive ratio? For the street we like the pump over driven at least 25% or higher pending the actual rpm range of the engine. With a higher drive ration the pump turns faster moving more coolant at the lower rpm range (idle). This should remove more heat from the engine before you shut it off. Third possibility an electric fan and or and electric booster pump for the coolant. Leave the fan and pump on for a short time (based on battery life) to help cool the engine during heat soak. Even letting the engine idle down longer will help IF everything I just mentioned is in place.

LS9 engine

My car is a2012 Corvette ZR1 with the oem liquid cool supercharger. Many LS9 had problems when drove hard, the cooling bricks in the supercharger tend to melt because of hot compress air. Should switching  the oem coolant in the supercharger to Evans coolant can help reduce the heat in it?  Have you had any feedback about it?  Only other alternative I know about is only water with water wetter. Don’t want to do any mistake so better ask qualified peoples.

The Corvette supercharger application is a problem that Evans cannot solve. We do not use our fluid in the supercharger of our 2016 ZO6 LT4 test car because of the problems associated with this application. The OEM fluid is a good start I believe it is 60% water, 100% water would be better but corrosion will be a problem. The engine is where Evans High Performance Coolant works better than the OEM fluid. Evans High Performance Coolant is designed for the engine because of the coolant boiling in the combustion chamber location. In normal conditions under high load the supercharger is not boiling the coolant.

Which coolant do you recommend?

I have a Ford FE (big block) 427 high performance engine, that constantly boils over. Which coolant would you recommend?

You want to use Evans High Performance coolant for this application.  What radiator are you using? Is it aluminum or copper/brass? How much HP are you making? What type fan? Electric of belt driven? These questions will help me figure out if our coolant will make a difference.

Ron Davis aluminum radiator with a 13" high com flow puller electric fan.  The fan covers about 70% of the radiator. 500HP I just ordered a 165 high flow thermostat with 3 3/8 bypass holes.

With this application and the components you have when you install the Evans High Performance coolant leave the new thermostat completely out of the systems. That's correct NO THERMOSTAT, NO RESTRICTOR, NOTHING! When the FE boils over what is the temperature on the gauge? Do you have the old FE type surge tank in the upper hose? What is the Radiator cap pressure?

Boils over around 235-245. Yes…Old FE surge tank with an overflow line. I believe it’s a 35psi cap. I live at the top of a hill, so it’s the most hot when I get it home and that’s when it boils over.

First thing I can suggest is have the pressure cap checked. It should not overflow at those temperature with a 35 lb cap. 235°F is HOT but it should not open the cap. To use Evans coolant the cap pressure must be changed to 13lb or 17lb max. Reason is Evans High Performance has a 375° F boiling point, it does not need the pressure and we do not want the pressure raising the boiling point any higher. This means Evans High Performance also does not need the thermostat as a restriction like 50/50 does. In your case remove it also max flow is what we want to help cool the engine in this case.

62 Chevy 2 Nova

My dad has a 62 Chevy 2 Nova street ripper with a 355 CI motor { new crate motor }-- The car overheats when it idles for 4+ minutes- We put in a new 3 core radiator With shroud- New water pump- dual fans- It still overheats when moving slow or not moving at all-- Going down the road-- NO Problem it runs cool .. Do you think your waterless coolant will cure this problem? If there is any doubt then we don't need to spend the money and continue looking elsewhere for the problem

From the sound of it you have other problems with the system. The indicator is that it runs cool down the road. Changing just the coolant most likely will not change the temperature and depending what the problem is the temperature could go up. If you would like please supply the following information. Crate engine horsepower. radiator core size and thickness, manufacturer of water pump, water pump part number, pump and crank pulley size (OD), thermostat temperature, thermostat manufacturer part number, Fan manufacturer, fans pusher or puller and temperature range seen on the gauge. Also if possible please supply photos of the engine and cooling system.


Ford 5.0 based racing engine

New Ford 5.0 based racing engine, all new plumbing and DOUBLE pass radiator. A completely new and dry system. About how much and what type do you recommend?

Due to the double pass version of your radiator we DO NOT suggest the use of Evans High Performance Coolant. Double pass radiators are for waterbased coolants that require pressure to keep the water from boiling. Evan Waterless Coolant is volume based coolant the more you move the better it works. Single pass with large aluminum tubes is preferred . For the 5.0L Ford application we found that 2 rows of 1" for low HP cars and 2 rows of 11/4" for SC and Turbo cars works best.

Hot Lap Dragster

Which one of your coolants would you recommend for a dragster that sometimes is rushed back to the line in the later rounds without a lot of time to cool And also has a pretty small radiator

If your racing NHRA sanctioned events Evans High Performance Coolant is approved and has a contingency program. Before making any absolute recommendation on this particular system can you supply photos of the cooing system and plumbing? With this information we can determine if your current small radiator system is compatible with Evans High Performance Coolant.

Can a K-Seal be used to repair a leak?

I put Evan's Coolant in a fresh build street rod back in 2000. 350 chev with a Walker 4 core radiator. The car hasn't been driven much, and now there is a small radiator leak in the driver's side lower portion. I want to repair the leak with K-Seal which I have used with great results on other vehicles. Adding the 8 oz. bottle will not put over the 5% water contamination that you talk about, but I plan on emptying the system and then re-filling with Evans. Is it necessary to remove the drain plugs on the engine or to use air to get the contaminated coolant out? Please let me know.

If the K-Seal product your using is part #ST5501 we have tested it and approved it for use in Evans Coolant. Because of this there is no reason to drain the system after adding the K-Seal.  Even if your current system had a high water content and the K-Seal was 100% water the incres would only be 1.5% based on a 4 gallon capacity. If you would like to send us a sample to test for water content there is no charge for this service. We need 1 ounce in a clean dry screw on lid container inside a ziplock bag sent to Evans Cooling systems PO BOX 434 Parkerford PA 19457.  If you still want to drain the system it would be best to remove the block drains and start with a complete new fill.

Do I need to use Prep Fluid?

I'm going to initially put this in my Stock Eliminator car. A couple of months ago I drained the cooling system (radiator and block). Is it necessary to use the prep fluid since the system I'm sure has been dry for some time now?

If everything is dry and empty, the PREP is not required, just fill with coolant. The only other concern might be that if the motor sat mostly empty of water, but "moist" inside and open to the air for a while, you could have a little light corrosion and rusty residue on the cast iron.  Evans coolant has a tendency to work that kind of stuff loose; you may see little tiny particles or a "haze" floating in the coolant at some point.  Not a huge issue, but you may wish to filter it out.

Water Pump Spec

Is there a certain gpm rating that the water pump must flow to use EVANS NPG WATERLESS COOLANT. Using a CSR electric water pump on a drag race engine. Flows 35-37 gpm.

The gpm is based on the actual HP rating of the engine and the amount of restriction in the cooling system. Drag race engine cooling systems are a little different because the pump is actually cooling the engine after the pass is made. If your less than 600 HP try the CSR with only removing the restrictor/thermostat assuming there is one. OR send us a photo of the system for more exact information. Our preference of electric pumps are Meziere HD (55 gpm free flow) units due to their higher volume and the ability to move more coolant at a higher pressure. Also single pass large aluminum tube radiators along with minimal restriction, More Volume is better than more pressure because of Evans high boiling point the increase in pressure does not improve the cooling capacity.  Your email mentions EVANS NPG WATERLESS COOLANT. There are 2 separate products Evans High Performance Coolant (HP) and Evans NPG coolant. If you are planning to use NPG and NOT HP the pump volume does need to be higher then if using HP due to the higher viscosity of the NPG coolant. Radiator design and restriction( hose size ,restrictor size) become more important when using NPG in a electric pump system. For more information please supply a photo of your cooling system and application.

Is Evans Legal for Drag Racing?

I’m really interested in using Evans waterless coolant. I like to take may car to the strip from time to time so I was wondering if Evans’ is legal for use in drag racing?  I see that you sponsor drivers in particular NHRA classes, but I know many tracks and sanctioning bodies require the use of water only, and ethylene glycol coolants are not allowed.
Also, I’m interested in possibly reducing the system pressure in my car, which is a ’73 Trans/Am with a fairly well built 455, automatic, and 3.42 rear gears. Please let me know which produce would be best for my application, and if a reduction in pressure is feasible.

The answer to your pressure question is yes maybe. The cap pressure can be reduced to 7 psi in your system, expansion pressure is reduced to a max of 5 psi, but pump/outlet pressure still varies with engine rpm. Raceing rpm can generate as much as 40 psi just moving the liquid though the system. This pressure depends on what components you have in the current system and how restrictive they are. Copper brass radiator core is more restrictive than an aluminum tube radiator core, double pass radiator is more restrictive than a single pass version,standard thermostat is more restrictive than a high flow thermostat.
NHRA approved Evans Waterless Coolant for use at all National and Divisional races as of July 2017. Evans has also put in place a contingency program with NHRA please see the NHRA section of If you local track still does not allow Ethylene Glycol or has a water only rule then Evans Waterless Coolant is not legal also. This is due to Evans being a blend of glycols formulated to be used without water. If your local track would like to investigate Evans Waterless Coolant have them contact us @860 668-1114

How to get the water out

I have a 565 pump gas BBC that I would like to run your high performance coolant in…. My problem is that I CANT access the block drains to get the rest of the water out… Have LARGE tube headers in the way… My Brodix aluminum block only has 1 drain on each side and cant access them….. Is there any way I can run your product effectively?????  This is Preferred by my track which says NO ANTI FREEZE….. My car is a Street driven car so I cant run straight water due to the winters here in NY… Car sits in garage in winter but still gets to freezing temps in there…. IS THERE ANY WAY I CAN USE YOUR PRODUCTS?????  THANKS FOR YOUR HELP…

If your tract is NHRA sanctioned  for National and Divisional races Evans High Performance has been approved, see contingency section of If not NHRA and a local track the NO ANTIFREEZE rule will create problems for you due to Evans being a blend of glycols. If the local track would like to investigate please have them contact us @ 860 668-1114.

With that out of the way there are a few tricks that can be done to help convert. First remove any restrictions in the system, thermostat restrictor washer, small AN radiator line etc. A large tube (11/4 or larger for the 565) aluminum radiator is best, NO MULTIPLE PASS RADIATORS!  Jack up the back of the car. This is to allow the coolant to flow to the lower hose outlet easier.
Drain the system as good as possible.
Remove upper and lower hose.
With thermostat/restrictor remove blow down though the thermostat housing with a shopvac or leaf blower. High volume air not shop high pressure air.
This should blow most of the old coolant out the lower hose, normally suggest a bucket to put the lower hose in. It's messy!
Do this to the radiator also!
To get everything out of the block pour 2 gallons of Evans PrepFluid in to the block at the thermostat housing, try to get one in each bank by letting the back down and jacking up the opposite side of the car to bias the Prep Fluid to one side then the other. 
Blow the Prep Fluid out the same as before.  
With this completed reconnect all hoses and close any drains.
Fill with Evans High Performance Coolant.
If any thing remains in the system it will be Prep Fluid, IT"S 100% compatable with High Performance Coolant. 
If you need more help please call 888 990-2665

Radiator Cap for Derby Car

I will be running y'all's coolant in my derby car . Which would be best a higher psi radiator cap or a lower one?

Maximum cap pressure should be 13 PSI. Even with the 13 PSI cap you should give the coolant someplace to expand to in a derby car.  I like a large tank 1 to 2 gallons if possible, NO thermostat, NO restrictor washer. Start off with the level at the bottom of the tank so you have maximum capacity for expansion. The hotter Evans coolant runs the more it expands, more than 13 PSI will create problems similar to water under pressure. If you can send us a photo of your system for more specific information.


Running with Prep Fluid

Is it a good idea to run a dirt bike (2013 YZ450F) with the prep fluid for 45sec or so and drain to try and get all the residual fluid not caught during the “air pressure” drain method.

It is a good idea and will ensure the conversion is done properly.

Motorsports Coolant

With cold temps brings great concerns . I am running the powersport coolant in my atv.  Your tech sheet says good to negative 40c then your sells front says negative 40f . There is a huge difference here. We hit -10f  last night which is -40c. Tonight is suppose to be even colder. Which means we are below the -40c. I hope you can see my concern here. 

The tech information is correct Evans Waterless Coolant protects to -40°F. This is considered it operating range we list it as freeze protection to be consistent with antifreeze and what the consumer relates to. Evans Waterless Coolant actually does not freeze and expand like waterbased coolants it contracts similar to motor oil. This actually improves the freeze protection beyond -40°F but pump-ability can be an issue with certain applications if not warmed up properly. Your ATV is protected from freezing  damage to at least -40°F with the Evans Powersports coolant.  The 2 temperature scales Fahrenheit  and Celsius  start to merge around 0°F and actually are the same at -40° F&C, -10° F is -23.33°C. We apologize for the confusion on the tech sheets but it is the same temperature whether F or C.

Your recommendations with a 2000 Boss Hoss

We've got a 2000 Boss Hoss here. It's got a small block zz4 with the factory electric water pump and aluminum radiator. The customer is interested in changing to your coolant. What are your recommendations?

You didn't mention if this customer is having any problems with it now?  There is no real issue against using Evans waterless coolant in this machine.  The coolant may not run very much different, temperature-wise, than water does.    It can help avoid the possibility of boiling over, on a hot day in traffic or sitting at a show, for example.   If the bike has a chronic cooling problem now, it may not solve it, but the coolant is very stable and runs consistent temps, even in high-load situations. Evans coolant will also offer better protection against corrosion and electrolysis in this type of system, with iron, aluminum, and other metals and materials.  Is this bike stored in the winter?  The coolant is well-suited for  storage, it will not evaporate or allow rust in the block, nor will it freeze or expand like water- it does get thicker, and contracts in the cold, but returns to normal as it heats up. As in any conversion, be sure to get all the existing water or antifreeze out.  Drain the block and radiator fully to the lowest points, disconnect hoses if necessary to drain the pump.  I guess this would be about a 2-3 gallon system altogether (a little less than this engine in a car would be.)

Evans "All-Season Coolant"

I just purchased 3 white gallon jugs of Evans “Non-Aqueous Propylene Glycol All-Season Coolant”. The coolant is light purple (Lavender?) in color. I have searched your website and have not found this product listed, so I can only conclude that it is “New Old Stock”. Though it does appear to match the description of what you are now selling as “Powersports Coolant". I wish to convert both my motorcycle (2011 Kawasaki Versys) and car (2009 Nissan Versa). Would this coolant be suitable for these vehicles? Also, the label on the jug cautions “Do not add water/Requires adaptive equipment”. I understand not adding water, but I am wondering if any “adaptive equipment” is actually required for either of these vehicles? If so, what would be required? I do plan on using prep fluid.

Do not install this particular product in either of your application!! If possible return it to where you purchased it for a refund or exchange for Evans High Performance Coolant ( green label, black bottle) . The white bottle has been out of production for more than 5 years. The product is Evans NPG, it is still in limited production and used only for specific racing application and will require changes to the cooling system to work properly in your applications. Powersports is only packaged in 1/2 gallon white bottles and has a turquoise blue green color. Powersports and High Performance are the current formulations that both of your applications should be using.

Evans Expansion

Does Evans Waterless Coolant expand when heated? If so, how does it compare to conventional coolant expansion? Should I install a coolant catch tank? My application is in power sports - 1999 Kawasaki KX250.

Evans Expands 3-5% when heated this will build hydraulic presser if over filled we suggest leaving the coolant level a little low for this. Conventional coolant will build steam vapor  presser. The catch tank would only really be needed if any would push out until our coolant finds it's level.

Which coolant should I use?

What is the differences in your High Performance Coolant and the Powersports Coolant?   I need a little more than the half gallon the Powersports comes in but don't want to use the wrong stuff.   This would be for my Honda trx450r.

There is a slight difference between High Performance and PowerSports in the formulation. The difference is for the smaller high stressed engines of the ATV/UTV and motorcycle/snowmobile market. For your application I would suggest the 1/2 gallon of PowerSports and a 1/2 gallon of Prep Fluid. Use the some of the Prep Fluid to help convert the system and the balance to top up the PowerSports fill as needed. The purpose of Prep Fluid is that it is 100% compatible with Evans Waterless Coolants across the product line and will help remove water from the system before converting to Evans coolant. Prep Fluid is not intended to be a stand alone coolant BUT can be used to top off a system in limited quantity.

Ok the engine is apart and will be completely free of any water or old coolant.  New radiator and lines so nothing in those either.  But your saying I can add prep fluid with the Powersports Coolant to get the amount that I need?  

Yes that is correct! Prep can be used to top off PowerSports. For that matter Prep can be used to top off any of Evans Waterless Coolants, keep the percentage to less than 25% of the system capacity.

Rad Cap Question

I am going to put Evans coolant in my 2017 honda crf 450 and was wondering if the stock rad cap would be fine or if I should get a different pressured one and if so what pressure of cap to run?

Our coolant doesn't rely on system pressure to raise the boiling point, so a stock cap will work just fine. For riders who already have a high pressure cap, I recommend going back to stock just to relieve a little stress on the system. Our coolant expands about 7% at operating temperature, so it will build pressure up to what the cap is rated for. Using either a stock cap or a higher pressure one will both work fine. 

Expansion Tank

I am building a custom bike that currently has an expansion tank - I would like to use Evans Waterless Coolant and was wondering whether I can remove the expansion tank from the cooling system?
My understanding is that pressure, boil over and air/steam build up would not occur using Evans - so what purpose does the expansion tank perform?
Any advice would be appreciated.

It can be done both ways with or without the expansion tank.

Without the tank the coolant level has to be set in the radiator so that when the Evans gets hot and expands there is still room under the cap. This keeps the pressure from building up and opening the cap. Under severe conditions the Evans could still expand more and vent coolant. This is not considered boiling over just that the system is to full, do not add any coolant back if this occurs maybe even take some more out to allow more space in the radiator.
With an expansion tank the radiator should be filled to the top and the overflow line connected to the bottom of the expansion tank or go in the top and extend to the bottom. This version allows the coolant to expand into the tank and keep the radiator full at all times. Expansion tank should be sized so that there is an air space for further expansion if needed. Pressure cap an be on the radiator or on the tank it all depends on how you want to set it up.
If you need more detail a photo of what your working on would be helpful.

Trucks, Diesels & Larger Vehicles

Cummins ISB 300

Can you use your product in a Diesel Pusher motorhome with a Cummins ISB 300 engine and a rear stock radiator. It has a very long hose run to the front heater core as well. It has the stock Freightliner radiator and plastic expansion tank.

The Cummins ISB is a good conversion for Evans High Performance Coolant. This engine does not require Heavy Duty Coolant. You do not mention the year or mileage which would be our only concern more than 150,000 miles the system would need to be flushed Evans part # E2012. If the mileage is low and the vehicle is over 15 years old the system should still be flushed. If cooling system maintenance has been kept current tan a presample of coolant would be best before the flushing process.
The ISB does not have a block drain and the long hoses will complicate getting the system as clean and completely empty. For a correct conversion the radiator, heater, block and any auxiliary system needs to be clean and empty this will result in an exeptable water content of less than 3%

Will my RV run cooler?

I have a 1991 ford F53 RV with a 460 cubic inch. Will this help my RV run cooler?

Evans High Performance will NOT LOWER the operating range of your BBF motor home. Due to the design of the cooling system of most RV's of that type the best thing that can be done is a custom upgraded radiator. I have worked with most of the typical designs in this class over the years and the radiator is always the limiting factor for these application along with air flow. These chassis were not designed to have heavy loads or tow heavy trailers due to the weight of the motor home initially.

6.0L Super Duty

I am installing a new long block 6.0 diesel in my 2007 Super Duty. What is the recommended process to use your coolant?

I hope with the new long block your going to upgrade the head gasket and head bolts/ studs. Any increas in boost over the stock setting give the potential to lose head gasket seal withou the upgrade.This is a major concern for Evans High Performance Coolant installation in the 6.0L Powerstroke. We highly suggest at the same time an upgrade to Bully Dog EGR Cooler delete and oil cooler, both are superior to the Ford replacements. Radiator and heater core replacement should also be considered at this time. With your new cooling system completely em[pty the process is simplified to just filling and bleeding as required with Evans High Performance Coolant. DO NOT USE Evans Heavy Duty Coolant it is not needed for the 6.0L Powerstroke engine.

Evans in Duramax Diesel

Can I use Evans coolant in my 2003 Duramax Diesel 2500HD Pickup Truck will I find it beneficial for a diesel. 

Evans High Performance Coolant works well in the Duramax, though the Duramax is a difficult conversion. We normally suggest the conversion process be done when other components need service example radiator, heater core, hoses, water pump this helps justify the extra labor involve to drain and clean the system. Issues are access to block drains and cleaning the system due to the OEM fill of DexCool.  Block drains MUST be remove to convert properly and flush the system clean of any residual DexCool or chemical flush used. Chemical Flush is highly recommended for applications over 100 000 miles over 250,000 conversion is NOT  recommended until major overhaul or component replacement. This recommendation is due to the amount of scale and sludge build up over time that will contaminate the Evans High Performance.

How much prep fluid should used

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra with the 6.6 LML Duramax the spec sheets say the truck will hold 28.5 quarts of coolant with the initial fill but how much prep fluid should be used to properly clean the left over 50/50 coolant from the system

Generally you want to first drain as much as possible, from every drain point available.  This includes the engine block-drain plugs, and disconnecting hoses as necessary.  It can be helpful to use an air-blower, such as a small leaf-blower- to push fluid through the heater core, hoses and toward the drain points.  In some vehicles you can get 95% of the old coolant out this way, but usually somewhat less.
There will still be some quantity of old fluid left, that you then need to purge out with the PREP fluid. You can re-assemble anything you had opened up, fill the system with PREP, and run the engine up to operating temp, so that the thermostat opens and the PREP circulates throughout.  The PREP will dilute the residuals, and absorb some water.  You could actually drive the truck around for a couple days like this if you want, The PREP will behave much the same as waterless coolant during this period, but is not itself the same as a finished coolant installation in terms of long-term protection.
Drain the PREP, as completely as possible. You should make an effort to keep track of the coolant quantity you add, and drain, to assess how completely the system was purged.   Example: if you know you are starting with 28.5 quarts, and you're able to drain 80% of that, then you fill with PREP, run to mix it, as above, and you wind up with a system full of 80% PREP and 20% residual. 
So you drain 80% of that, and theoretically have 20% of the system capacity left, which is a mixture of 80% PREP and 20% residual.  So you have about 5% residual at this point.  By my math, that's 45 oz, or about a quart and a half. By the way, half of this would be water, and half old anti-freeze.  Evans specification is to wind up with no more than 3-5% water at the finish, so you are right about there, and can fill it up with coolant.  The small amount of PREP fluid in the mix will readily assimilate into the waterless coolant.  It's still a good idea to verify the water content of the finished job.  There is a low-cost refractometer tool available, or you can send us a sample.

Does Evans work in a Edelbrock Supercharge?

I've got your coolant in all my vehicles after watching the Jay Leno's garage episode i.e. car, truck, motorcycle(s), and snowmobile. I've got an F-150 with an Edelbrock Supercharge that currently has a 50/50 coolant mixture. Would your coolant work in the Supercharger fine? I haven't asked Edelbrock yet but will.

The honest answer is -maybe. Yes, waterless coolant will work.  Whether it works better is subject to other factors. Evans waterless coolant's primary benefit is the improved control of heat transfer, at temperatures where water-based coolant begins to fail due to the water boiling, and the effect of the accumulating vapor. his is easy to quantify in the engine cooling system;  In the charge-air cooler, the coolant often does not see such stressed temperatures. Strictly from a heat-transfer standpoint,  liquid water is most effective. You may not see much difference, functionally,  by changing it over, unless the 50/50 is already stressed. It is still valid to address water's corrosive nature in the blower's heat-exchange system; Evans waterless coolant can protect the aluminum and other materials from corrosion better, with less maintenance over the vehicle's life.

Which coolant to use for light duty diesel?

What do you consider light duty diesel? I have a F350 Ford Superduty and a 2500 Dodge Cummins, both have been modified some. I just want to use what you think is best for my applications.

Both applications are considered Light Duty. 

Evans  Heavy Duty Coolant is specifically for the larger diesel engines with wet cylinder liners. There is no benefit to using Evans Heavy Duty Coolant in the Light Duty applications that have the cylinder cast in the block or dry cylinder liners.
Bigger thing to consider is the amount of mileage on each application and how clean the current systems are. If both vehicles have less than 100,000 miles a coolant change can be advantageous. More than 150000 miles a cooling system chemical should be used to clean the system first. The Dodge Cummins application does not have a block drain this makes emptying the system more difficult. There are specific instruction on our website for this application. Depending on what year and engine you have in the F350 7.3,6.0,6.4,6.7 and any modification that increase boost there are other considerations head bolt, head gaskets, EGR delete, oil cooler etc. that need to be considered. If the applications have more than 250000 miles without a refresh the benefit of Evans coolant will be limited due the the amount of sediment build up over the life of the engine. It would be best to wait for regular maintenance of cooling system components or an engine refresh to install Evans High Performance Coolant.

Question about Water/Moisture Content with Evans Coolant

I installed the Evans coolant in my 2001 F250 (350,000 miles) approximately a year ago.  When I did the coolant swap I used my leaf blower to blow air thru the system from top radiator hose thru to the bottom hose to remove any remaining water that didn’t drain out by gravity.  Upon installing the cap on the reservoir after refilling, I drilled a small hole in the cap so that any remaining moisture could vent out of the system once it came up to temp. (I did not read this on Evans site, but on an online forum as something to do to remove any last remaining moisture.)  Anyway, I did not change this cap to one without a hole and it has been installed since day one.   
Everything seemed fine until this past summer when I noticed my coolant changing colors. It was becoming darker in color. I figured it could only be a handful of sources for this and initially thought that my oil cooler may have had a ruptured tube and with the low coolant pressure the oil was overcoming this and entering the system thru a leaking tube.  Then one day I realized when the light was angled just right that the color was more red in nature. This got me to thinking about the transmission cooler that is located in the bottom of my radiator. Same thing, concerned with the lower coolant pressure allowing the higher trans pressure to produce a leak with the higher pressure differential and it could be transmission oil present in my coolant.  The last thing I thought was what if with the hole in the cap and the many heating and cooling cycles that are done down along the Gulf Coast with our high 150% humidity it may have contaminated the coolant with excess moisture.  I was wondering if this would have any effect on the coolant.
So, does that seem plausible that a 1/8” hole in the cap could have allowed enough moisture to contaminate the system?  Can you tell me exactly what would happen if excess moisture were present in the system? Would the coolant become discolored like what I described above?  I am looking at a relatively expensive fix no matter which route I take. The oil cooler is $300. A new radiator is $400-500. Another 8 gallons of Evans is $320 + new cap.   I am trying to narrow down my options without doing all three of these and making it a really expensive fix.  Can you provide any insight to what I am referencing above?

The color change is normal due to the heat cycles the Evans Coolant goes though. IF your water content is high it will take longer for the color to change and reddish brown is one of the color phases.I noticed that when you did the conversion you did not mention removal of the block drains on the 7.3L Powerstroke. Without doing this there is most likely a high water content. Please send us a sample of coolant to check for water and have analyzed before you do any other fixes there is NO CHARGE FOR THIS SERVICE. We need a 3oz sample from the radiator in a clean dry screw on lid type container inside a zip lock bag.Mail the sample to Evans Cooling Systems PO BOX 434 Parkerford, PA 19457 include your contact information phone email address etc.and a brief note referencing this email and your F350. We will check the water content the day it arrives, lab analysis takes an additional 3 to 4 week at this time. If you like also send a sample from the expansion tank. Once the results are available we will contact you with the condition of your coolant and any necessary recommendation. 

With only 1 year on the system if the water content is high there should not be extensive damage. We do suggest a new sealed radiator cap to eliminate the possibility of future contamination  due to the 150% humidity you experience. If possible please supply the batch number from the back of the bottle. It is printed on the bottom right corner of the back label, 7 digits  starting with R. 

Bi-Metal Engine

Is Evans compatible with aluminum and cast iron? I.e cast iron block with aluminum heads?
I have a Chevy truck with a 454 bb.. runs very warm/hot. Looking to cool it down with your product and an aluminum radiator.

Yes Evans is compatible with a bi-metal engine. Please include some more details about your current temperature range and application. A single pass large tube aluminum radiator is preferred when trying to lower the operating temperature. There are also other changes that can be made depending on the rest of your system and the actual application.

Evans Waterless in Ram Cummings 6.7 Diesel

I have a 2013 Ram 2500 6.7 Diesel and I’m very seriously considering using your Waterless Coolant in my truck.  I have had some comments though about how it would work in a Diesel engine that has an exhaust cooling system that uses the engines water coolant to cool the exhaust.My personal mechanic wasn’t sure of how your product would work in that.  I can’t see how it would be a problem but then I’m not sure.  Have you had any experience with your Waterless coolant being used in modern Diesels or do you have any information about any adverse effects?  I can’t imagine that it would cause any problems as it is a coolant that works in other applications.Would love to have your input on this before I buy the product and install it.

For some reason unknown to us we do not get a lot of 6.7L Cummins application the few we have done worked just fine. We have done multiple 5.9L Cummins, 6.7L Ford, 6.0L For 7.3L Ford  and the GM  Dura Max over the years with success.The EGR system in stock form introduces more heat in to the coolant, only when the horsepower has been increase above stock level does it become a problem. At that point we suggest an aftermarket cooler that can handle the increased capacity.

Mine is totally stock so I should be able to switch to your coolant without any problems, correct?
That is correct! Keep in mind you must drain the system completely and fill with only Evans high Performance Coolant. If mileage is over 100,000 a chemical flush is suggested to clean the system.If over 250,000 I would not convert due to too much residual corrosion and antifreeze drop out.The 6.7L is a complex system and does not have a block drain please read the 5.9L Cummins instructions and review the Heavy duty instuctions on

Mine is a 2013 so I only have 40,000 miles on it.I assume that in an emergency if you needed more coolant you could put water in, but I’ll just carry an extra gallon yours in the truck just as a precaution.I have read the instruction about using your prep fluid after draining the water and then drain the prep fluid and install the Evans Coolant.  And expensive proposition as the 6.7 takes something like 6 or 7 gallons but if I get a wee bit better cooling I’m up for it.

Did you read the 5.9L Cummins instruction? Typically only one gallon of PREP is required to do this type of conversion. If you cannot find them we can email them. The 6.7L inline engine does not need to be filled and ran to convert properly.  At 40,000 that is a good time to start with Evans High Performance. Do not expect the operating temperature to change much but it will be more stable. You will also see the gauge react quicker to load and ambient air changes this is normal due to the lack of boiling in the system without water.

How to Drain Small Block Chevy

I have a gen one 1973 small block chevy. Radiator and heater core are new and bone dry. I removed my drain plugs in the bottom of my block on the left and right side of the block. I hooked my water hose to flush old anti freeze and misc muck from the engine the only water in my block is below my drain plugs. What do I need to do to prepare for Evans coolant?

If you want to go the best route at this point, remove the thermostat an pour 1 gallon of Evans Prep Fluid though the engine with the block drain open. This will remove all the residual water from the bottom of the block, what remains of the Prep Fluid is totally compatible with the High Performance Coolant. Do not forget to blow out the heater core. Depending on your application the thermostat can also be left out.
The Prep Fluid step could be skipped you will end up with a slightly higher water content. Send us a sample to have it checked or purchase part #E2196 refractometer and check it yourself. Less than 3% is preferred, less than 5% is acceptable.

Davies Craig water pump

Can I use Evans waterless coolant with a Davies Craig electric water pump?

This specific pump manufacturer, Davies Craig, has multiple versions that typically do not move enough coolant pending the type of application.

7.3L Powerstroke

I have a 2002 F250 7.3 with 422K my dailey driver, I would like to change from the anti-freeze to waterless. What do you recommend I do? I am putting new injectors in and would like to go with your products.

The mileage is the biggest concern on your 7.3L Powerstroke. To convert properly you must use a chemical flush Evans part# E2012 to clean the system properly.This is a complete system flush that requires the radiator, block (block drain plugs removed) and heater be drained and flushed with water before adding the E2012 flush. After the flush process the system must be flushed again with water and drained completely before adding Evans High Performance Coolant. Your system will require 8 gallons of High Performance minimum and 2 gallons of PrepFluid to chase the water from the block with the block drains open.

WZ Ford Fiesta Sport Ecoboost

I have a new WZ Ford Fiesta Sport with 3 cylinder,1000cc,ecoboost turbocharged motor. I am concerned about reports that there have been failures of these motors at low kilometres due to overheating. I believe the problem may be caused by coolant breaking down because it is used to cool the exhaust manifold that supplies the turbocharger which runs at 20 psi. The cylinder head incorporates the exhaust manifold ie it is all cast in one. Would Evans coolant help with this? Also is Evans coolant likely to give any problems with seepage as I believe it is very thin.

Hi Terry:
The answer to this is honestly,  "maybe".  The waterless coolant can avoid the boiling-off of water at the hottest area of the turbo manifold, and keep liquid coolant in contact there, but depending on how the coolant is routed, it may introduce that heat right back into the motor.  You may or may not see an improvement in gauge temperature, under boost, but it may improve temperature stability.  Our direct experience with the Ford Ecoboost is at this time  limited to the the F150 truck applications; in these the changeover does not typically lower gauge temps.  We have observed that the Ecoboost coolant flow technology uses more manipulation of the pressure differentials caused by the various levels of  vapor present in  water-based coolant at operating temp.  Evans will not boil, and does not create the same pressurization, and flow is diminished.   Also, Evans does have a low surface tension- it can find leaks that water won't pass through. If you disassemble for repairs or upgrades, use proper assembly practices and good gasket sealer on all gaskets and bolts that contact the coolant.

Mishimoto Radiator

I have a Mishimoto radiator I believe its a 2 row. The car is a Mitsubishi eclipse turbo that is making about 500+ hp. The build s brand new with new motor and new radiator. it is only used for drag racing no daily use. My question. can your system be used in a 2 row radiator and also what temp thermostat would I use for my application would you suggest. Also the vehicle is using VP E85 . 

How big is the rad. core?  (width x height?) and how wide are the tubes, and is it a single pass or double pass?  These questions all have to do with flow capability.  What are you using for a coolant pump ? Often we will run no thermostat, you may or may not need to keep one because of the computer, if so find a high-flow stat, or modify if possible by drilling  2-4 small holes in the flange for more flow.  A drag-only car will only flow a gallon, maybe,  through the motor during the pass, and afterwards will "heat-soak".  With Evans, maximum coolant flow possible is the key.

Does Evans prevent head gasket problems?

I have a 2005 Cadillac Sts with the northstar v8. We have 11100 miles on it. The northstar is notorious for head gasket problems. Is this a product that can prevent it because it's waterless?

Do I read the mileage correctly 11100? If correct that's very low.

Typically Evans will not solve this type of problem because it's a mechanical issue rather than a coolant issue. With the all aluminum engine heat cycles cause the head and block to move this movement and the clamping force of the head bolts cause the head gasket failures. Also IF the potential is already exist  Evans High Performance Coolant will leak faster because of it's very low surface tension. Evans is able to control the corrosion in a system like this that sits for extended periods due to its lack of water. To convert this system it must be completely empty and flushed to remove all the current antifreeze.

Heat from my heater

I live in Minnesota and I need heat from my heater...will this still give me heat in the winter when it's 10-20 below 0?

Heater should work just fine. For severe cold weather applications an increase in thermostat temperature if possible or even blocking some of the radiator to reduce the efficiency in extreme temperatures also will improve heater performance.

Operating Temperature

 Does it make your average running temperature increase by 10-20 degrees?

On average Evans Coolants will run at approximately the same temperature range as 50/50 antifreeze. This information is based on OEM designed cooling systems with adequate heat dissipation for the application. In some instances OEM systems can be more complex or under designed due to engine HP or body design(air flow limited). By limiting the coolants capability to dissipate heat it is not impossible that Evans Coolants will run hotter than 50/50 antifreeze. A potential problem on a recently converted system can be air pockets. To eliminate this possibility drive the vehicle cycling the engine on and off multiple time allowing the  engine to cool each time over night. This cycling helps move the air pockets and will normally show a decrease in operating temperature. One of the benefits that Evans brings to the cooling system is the ability to run at a higher temperature without fear of overheating and boil over. If the system your working on has been modified and the temperature range is beyond the comfort zone please supply specific information related to the problem our technical staff can evaluate your components and make suggestions. Photos of the engine and cooling system are helpful in diagnosing  a temperature problem.

Evans Temperature Drop

My question is how many degrees cooler will this coolant keep my engine? Example, engine ice claims to keep the engine 10-25 degrees cooler, what does yours?

Using your words Engine Ice claims 10° to 25°F cooler, key word is claims. Evans does not make any claim that your engine will run cooler by using Evans Coolants. If you are having a temperature issue and wish to understand how Evans changes the way the cooling system works please review, How it works, Tech Tips. If you have a specific application that your having trouble with please supply the make, model and year along with a description of the problem.

BMW E30 2002

I have a BMW e30 2002 and having to replace the radiator or expansion tank about every 2 years.
I have read on forums that your product may help with my problem.
What prep do I need and how much. What coolant product do I need and how much.

The Product you need is Evans High Performance Coolant and Prep Fluid. E30 ME shows 11.4 quarts for the cooling system, you will need 3 gallons of High Performance and 3 gallons of Prep Fluid.Have you checked the amount of voltage in the cooling system? If there is .3 volts or more Evans will only slow the electrolysis process not eliminate it. Finding the source of the voltage along with cleaning the block with a chemical flush and replacing the radiator and heater core most likely is the only sure way to eliminate the problem.  Without the flushing and component replacement the residual coolant and old components can still become a battery and continue the electrolysis problem if that is what is happening.

Does Evans work in a Dodge Cummins Application?

Evans High Performance Coolant works well in the Dodge Cummins application. This application does not require the Heavy Duty Coolant that coolant is only for the wet liner engines of the Class 8 trucks. Suggestions if you have under 100,000 miles the conversion process is straightforward drain , install 1 galon of Evans Prep Fluid per the instructions, fill with High Performance Coolant. If over 150,000 miles we suggest a chemical flush to clean the system before converting to High Performance Coolant. If more than 250,000 miles if might be best to hold off until major rebuild or major component replacement. Other option for the 250,000 plus mileage would be to send us a sample of your current coolant for pre conversion analysis. This will allow us to determine the current condition of your system and if conversion is feasible. Cost would be $60 for the test refundable with purchase of Evans High Performance. Please keep this offer as a reference when ordering,call 888 990-2665.

Can the racing coolant be used in honda accord? Can your product increase mpg and horsepower?

Evans High Performance Coolant is nothing more than a coolant change in a stock Honda Accord. If the Accord is a high performance application there potentially could be system upgrades necessary. With only a coolant change there would not be an improvement to fuel mileage and engine horse power. The capability of Evans High Performance Coolant will allow tuning and temperature changes that waterbased coolant cannot. This is where the mileage and power will be found.

Is Evan's coolant non-silicon based? Does it have any rust inhibitors in it?

Evans Waterless Coolants are a silicon free blend of glycols used to replace the total capacity of your cooling system without water.

Evans Waterless Coolants when installed properly are less than 3% water with a proprietary corrosion inhibitor package.  We do not refer to a rust inhibitor due to the lack of water that creates rust. If the Evans Waterless Coolant cooling is contaminated with a higher level of water than specified (more than 10%) the system must be changed out in a short period of time to eliminate the potential corrosion from the water.

Is your product safe on a 2011 Mercedes E350?

Evans High Performance Coolant is compatible with the E350 cooling system. Key to the conversion is getting the system completely empty and clean. Cars with over 150,000 miles should have a chemical flush done before converting to Evans High Performance coolant, If over 200,000 miles consideration of major components should be taken into account and potentially replace  in the process of converting to ensure a sound cooling system once Evans High Performance is installed. The mercedes bleeding process for the coling system needs to be followed for proper installation.

My Car is Pressurising

Hi my car is pressuring after a few minutes causing it to shoot coolant out , will Evans water free coolant prevent this from happening also will my heater produce hot air. thank you David.

If your system is pushing coolant out at normal temperature and normal operating conditions there is something wrong with the system, head gasket, cracked head or block, bad radiator cap, clogged radiator  collapsed hose, ect. Evans might cover up the problem for a short period and that's all. Find the problem and fix it before converting to Evans.

Will Evans work in triple flow radiators?

If your referring to a triple pass version where the coolant makes 3 passes though the radiator core NO. Preferred radiator is a single pass version  one pass though the radiator, due to the difference in the way Evans Coolants work.
If your referring to a 3 row radiator in a single pass version if it is sized correctly for the applications horsepower rating YES it will work. If you have a question to exactly what you have please call Tech at 888 990-2665 or send us a photo of the radiator.

Coolant Interaction

Since evans coolant does not boil until 375 degrees, and has little if any vaporization, would it be accurate that a pressure cap is not required? Also, if this is accurate, would not any residual water be vapored or boiled off under normal heat up and operation?
Please advise, I'm using your coolent on a custom application with convoluted cooling hoses. 

You are correct almost!  Evans can be used in a zero pressure system with a vented cap. Unfortunately this depends entirely on the type of system and the location of the radiator cap. For example older vehicles with top and bottom radiator designs have the cap on the pressure side of the system ( coolant returning to the radiator). This means that the pump has the ability to force coolant out of the cap due to pump volume and restriction of the radiator core. A modern system with a cross flow radiator and a remote expansion tank with the cap on it, is connected to the suction side of the system (coolant returning to the inlet of the pump). The pump is actually pulling the cap closed , therefore this configuration could actually run with out a cap if needed. Evans Waterless Coolant is hygroscopic (tending to absorb moisture from the air) without sealing the system the water percentage would increase with the exposure to the atmosphere.   
The vaporizing of the water in Evans Waterless Coolant depends on the amount, location and the temperature. Moisture absorbed at the expansion tank in small quantities will vapor off once the under hood temperature reaches approximately 100°F. This is because the open expansion tank does not circulate the coolant though the engine and the moisture is not totally absorbed. Once the coolant has absorbed the moisture and circulated it though the system mixing it in the process it is more difficult to remove the water from the coolant. Percentages of higher than 15% will readily boil off when the coolant temperature is above 220°F to 240°F. When the percentage is below 10% 260° to 280°F is required to separate the water from the coolant. Below 5% the water is bonded at the molecular level and requires 280°F plus to separate. This is the reason that Evans definition of a good conversion is 3% or less.

Can Evans Coolant replace Dexcool?

Can Evans coolant replace Dex-cool products in GM/Cadillac cars and trucks without causing the problems that is in the law suits that have cost car owners lots of money?

Thank you for your question.  We are familiar with the history of the GM Dexcool.  Evans waterless coolant is an entirely unique product, we do not use the same additives as Dexcool or any other extended life water-based antifreeze.
Evans can effectively replace the Dexcool in your system;  It is very important, and highly recommended to do a thorough system cleaning, or "flush", to remove all the Dexcool, and the deposits it leaves in the system.  it is also important to assess the system for existing corrosion, and replace worn hoses or other components and repair any leaks or blockages.

My Evans Coolant

I have had Evans in my cooling systems since I built the car in 2003, never had any issues.  Started car to warm up did not have cooling fan on temp exceeded boil over temp, will I need to change or fortify the coolant after this incident?

Most likely not! Evans can withstand the higher temperature spikes of situations like this without issue.
For piece of mind we can have a small sample (3 oz.) analyzed to determine the exact condition of your coolant. There is NO CHARGE for this service. We need 3 oz. in a clean dry container with a screw on lid in a ziplock bag along with your contact information and a brief note describing what happened. Send to Evans Cooling Systems, PO BOX 434, Parkerford, PA 19457. It takes approximately 3 weeks for the lab to publish the results we will contact you once they are available. 

Cummins 4BT Rock Crawler

I have a rock crawler with a cummins 4bt.  With your product it is stated that over heating is not a problem. Is there a upper limit to how hot a engine can be ran with your coolant?

We consider 260°F the upper limit of Evans Coolant operating range. To run at this temperature other than in temperature spike conditions all other operating ranges of the application must be under control. Example engine oil temperature within limits, trans oil within limits, etc. With normal operating temperature above 240°F the life expectancy of Evans Coolant decreases, we suggest lab analysis at every oil change to help monitor the Evans Coolants stability. 

With the 4bt which coolant would you recommend?

Your 4BT can use Evans High Performance Coolant and 1 gallon of Evans Prep Fluid. Evans Heavy Duty Coolant is only for the larger diesel engines that have wet cylinder liners. The 4BT does not have a block drain so if this is a conversion the Prep Fluid must be used to purge the remaining antifreeze and water from the bottom of the block. If the 4BT has more than 75000 miles on the cooling system we also suggest a chemical flush before converting to Evans High Performance Coolant. ALL DIESEL application NEED to be less than 3% water when converted properly.

Audi A4 Turbo

Can i use Evans coolant for my Audi A4-2004, 1.8T, FWD engine?>If yes, what coolant i should choose? How much Evansncoolant do i need for replacing old G12 coolant?

Thank you for your question about the Audi A4. Our listing show that your car requires 6.9 quarts of Evans High Performance Coolant (2 Gallons). With your A4 being 13 years old and using G 12 formula antifreeze a cooling system chemical flush would be required  to convert to Evans High Performance coolant correctly. Any major manufactures chemical flush would be sufficient, follow the instructions and flush system completely after chemical uses.Cooling system must be completely empty ( radiator, engine block and heater core) and clean before installing Evans High Performance coolant .
If your A4 1.8L turbo has a separate pump that circulates engine coolant though the turbo and you live in a  climate that the outside air temperature can reach freezing we do not suggest the use of Evans High Performance coolant. Reason is the impeller of the aux. pump is rubber and will not circulate the High Performance Coolant in temperatures below freezing. This results in a broken pump impeller and no coolant circulation for the turbo. In this case the G 12 will be the best coolant due to the pump design.

Subaru EJ22 and Toyota 1HZ engines

I am thinking of using your product in my Subaru with an EJ22 engine. As you may know, Subaru coolant systems are prone to air locks due to the flat 4 engine and high mounted heater. A couple of questions:
Do you have experience using your products in a Subaru with an EJ22 engine?
Anything I should know/modify?
Is the air lock problem likely to be better or worse with your product?
I am thinking of using your product in my Toyota Landcruiser with the 1HZ diesel engine. A couple of questions:
Do you have experience using your products in a Toyota Landcruiser with the 1HZ diesel engine?
Anything I should know/modify?

We have used High Performance Coolant in multiple Subaru applications from stone stock to all out race WRX. With a stock engine and cooling system the air problem is about the same follow the standard procedure and you should be fine. If the engine has been modified the best thing is to start with is an aftermarket improved radiator this will compensate for the increase in horse power.

The Toyota Landcruiser diesel application we have not worked with at this time. Normal circumstances it should be just a coolant change with no special changes needed.
Prep Fluid can be reused if the water content is monitored with a refractometer (Evans part #E2196)  and stays less then 10 %. Prep Fluid works in 2 ways,absorbs water by contact and weight differential, above 10% water the effectiveness of both methods diminishes.

OK, a couple of other things…I read somewhere that if there is, say, 7% water it will boil off into the overflow tank… true or false.
I read somewhere that if there is too much water a corrosive acid is formed… true or false?

Thanks for asking both issues are false! 
Evans Waterless Coolant will give up residual water only if it is above 260°F and more than 6%. At approximately 6% the water is starting to become molecularly bonded to the coolant and will require a temperature above 280°F to separate. This process does take place in the engine at the combustion chamber but the water vapor condenses before reaching the expansion tank where it would vent out. The expansion tank will vary in water content if directly vented to the atmosphere but this water content is different from that in the engine and does vent when the temperature of the expansion tank is above 90°F. This is a result of the hygroscopic nature of Evans Coolant.  The result of to much water in an Evans Waterless System is not an acid but the corrosion that occurs when the water is not inhibited against corrosion. Evans Waterless Coolant is designed to be less than 5% water by volume, the inhibitor package used can tolerate slightly more water contamination than 5% but will not control corrosion beyond 10% by volume. Acids that develop in any coolant are formed by the glycol break down from heat cycles. This acid resulting from glycol break down is the cause of PH change in engine coolants. The PH of Evans waterless coolant PH specification is between 8 and 9, neutral range is 7.


Is your waterless coolant good for a vortech aftercooler and if so what would be the advantage of using your product over regular coolant?

In this case I suggest staying with what your system was designed to use, 50/50, 100% or any other blend of antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors. Aftercoolers typically do not boil the liquid used to transfer heat from the air. The internal combustion engine boils the coolant in the cylinder heads. This is where Evans Waterless Coolant has the advantage, when the coolant boils.

Coolant Additives

I’m assuming the answer is no but can I add something like water wetter to my evans waterless coolant?
As you suspected, the answer is no. Evans Waterless Coolant doesn’t require additional additives, plus without water in the system, additives have no effect. When water boils the vapor (bubbles) prevent coolant to metal contact, this can create hot spots. Water Wetter and any of the other additives for water modify the surface tension of water allowing the bubbles to break away quicker when the coolant/mixure boils. 

Does Evans HP come in smaller containers?

A couple of questions: Do you provide your standard high performance waterless coolant in smaller containers? Or perhaps in a 2.5 gallon size? Or, can you mix the powersports formula with the standard?
The reason I ask is that my car's coolant capacity is 9 quarts, so 2 gallons won't be quite enough. However, if I purchase 3 gallons, (+ 3 gallons of the prep), that's not only a lot more cost, but also a lot of fluids to store or dispose of.

Sorry, we only sell High Performance Coolant in one gallon containers. All Evans Coolants are compatible with each other. 
You could use left over Prep Fluid, it does not have the long life additives in it but, that little bit will
not make a difference. We also suggest to keep some around just in case you need it.

Is Evans right for a Prius?

Would your coolant work ok in a 2013 Prius C?

We have installed Evans high Performance in the Prius engine application, we found no benefit to installing it in the battery system.

The engine coolant runs the same as the OEM coolant. Due to the difference in the cooling conditions ( engine boils the coolant batteries do not) and potential other issues with the battery cooling system we do not suggest converting.

Evans Heavy Duty Coolant

Will Evans work in older diesel engines? Answer is yes it will work. 
Better question will it solve overheating in older diesel engines? Answer probably not!
Evans Cooling Systems manufactures a product specifically for the heavy duty wet liner engines, Heavy Duty Coolant (HD) part  #EC61001. HD has been marketed to the heavy duty industry for a number of years it is still in production but currently Evans Cooling Systems marketing concentration is elsewhere. Older heady duty diesel engines that experience overheating normally have an existing problem, dirty cooling system, clogged radiator, cracked head, leaking gaskets are just a few examples. Evans HD is only the liquid component of the system and to claim that we can solve hardware problems would be erroneous. To clean the system enough to convert to Evans HD requires significant time and resources that would be wasted if the original problem is not fixed. It would be time and money better spent finding and repairing the problem or overhauling the engine completely. After an overhaul would also be a better time to install Evans HD with the system clean and 100% efficient.

Anode Installation

Is an anode rod ( in the drain plug )on the radiator needed with you product ?

With Evans waterless coolant installed properly with a water content of less than 3% and a voltage test of less than .01 volts in the coolant a sacrificial anode is not necessary.

Engine Overheating

I just recently purchased your waterless coolant and was excited to use it for the protection from corrosion factor. After I did a flush and drain and let everything dry out I installed the coolant. After I bled out the system and ran the engine I was over 225 degrees at idle, before I did the install I was never over 180 on the hottest day in summer. I even tried a new 160 degree thermostat and still no difference. Is there any suggestions on why your product is running this much hotter in my engine? This is a 383 stroker with dual electric fan radiator and stock water pump.

First off sounds like there is still some air in the system. 383 Small block Chevy?

At this temperature does the coolant expand into the expansion tank?
What type of radiator?
How much horsepower?
Try removing the thermostat completely.  This can be done with Evans keep in mind NO WATER in the system. This also helps the air move out of the system easier.

I have vacuumed out the system with an airlift tool so there should be very little if any air in the system. And coolant doesn't push into the overflow, and the motor is a Chevy. I'm not positive on the radiator but I believe it's a walker radiator. The horsepower should be around 600, and what would be the reasoning for removing the thermostat, does Evans need more circulation in the system?

This is where Evans waterless technology is different than the 50/50 antifreeze. Evans does not require the pressure that the thermostat puts in the system. This pressure is used to keep the water from boiling, no water to boil no pressure needed. With the potential of the walker radiator to have small tubes we want the radiator to be the restriction, if it is a walker radiator and has small tube (3/8" or smaller) or is a multiple pass version Evans High Performance Coolant will not lower the operating temperature. For 600 HP we suggest a minimum of 2 rows of 11/4" aluminum tube with a core frontal area of 1 sq/in per cu/in of engine displacement. If the radiator has to be smaller the core tube size needs to increase to 2 rows of 11/2" or 3 rows of 1" aluminum tube.
If the coolant is not moving to the expansion tank what is the cap pressure and where is the cap located? What type of vehicle are you working on?

We are considering converting our Kubota tractors over to Evans Coolant.

We plan to start with a L6060 Kubota HST (4wd) with a cooling system capacity of 32.9 L (8.69 gallons). 
I have several questions: 
  1. How much prep fluid do you recommend?
  2. Should we change the pressure cap and if so, what should the pressure release setting of the new cap be?
  3. Should we change the thermostat?  What should the replacement thermostat be?

We are constantly overworking the engines of our tractors, so for the 62 hp engine, would you recommend the high performance or heavy duty coolant?
The difference between High Performance and Heavy Duty application is the cylinder liner type. Heavy Duty is designed for wet cylinder liner applications the inhibitor package is different, High Performance is for everything else. I could not determine what the engine is for your L6060.  Key to the quantity of Prep Fluid is if there is a block drain. If yes drain the block, remove the thermostat and blow (leaf blower or Shop vac on reverse work best, high volume air) down though the block with the drain open. This will remove all the old coolant, pour 1 gallon of prep Fluid into the block with he drain closed when done remove drain and blow again to remove Prep Fluid. IF there is no drain plug follow the same procedure as above but fill the system and run the engine up to temperature. When cool drain and blowout with lower hose removed from radiator. Most inline engine will drain from the lower hose fairly well even without a block drain 1 to 2 gallons of Prep Fluid should be sufficient if blown out correctly. The pressure cap on your system does not need to be changed, adjust the level properly so the coolant does not expand and fill the top tank of the radiator at hot operating temperature. If you can find one a 13 psi cap would be the max and min pressure setting. The stock thermostat is fine, if there is one that is lower in temperature it might be beneficial or  in hot weather the thermostat could be removed completely. The thermostat will need to be replace for cold weather operation. If you remove the thermostat you must fined and plug the thermostat bypass circuit, it is typically a small hose or an internal passage.

Here's the response from our Kubota service manager who was willing to give Evans coolant a try until he talked with Kubota.  I wonder if there is anyway they could install Evans Coolant in a new tractor at the factory.  Overheating is a serious issue for us.
Gerry, I got in contact with Kubota & also read over what Evans sent you.  These tier four engines have coolant running through the system to be used in the regeneration process  (more than the block) so I can’t bypass the thermostat.  There isn’t a block drain & access to the thermostat is not convenient.  At this point I am thinking I can’t perform this due to the newer style engine.  

Evans Freezing Point

Does your product prevent freezing? What is the temp range?

Evans High Performance Coolant does not freeze operating range is from -40ºF to 260ºF. Key is to removal of water from the systems Evans Waterless Coolant contracts instead of expanding like water does in freezing temperatures.

Sebring Convertible 2005 2.7 liter

I have a 2005 Sebring Convertible with the notorious 2.7 liter V6. You may know that the design of the water pump and gasket was at fault for many early failures on this engine.

Because Evans Coolant does not add pressure to the Cooling system – I am thinking that Evans could extend the life of the engine – eliminating the possibility of a head gasket blowing or even extending the life of the radiator. Note, I have not had any trouble with this engine. Am I on to something???? I also have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 liter V8 that recently blew its head gasket. I will be replacing it and the radiator soon. Would you recommend Evans?

The Jeep would be a prime candidate with new radiator and head gasket repaired. The Sebring is a prime candidate for conversion but the reason your interested in might not be the best. Here is the issue which applies to the Jeep also if your vehicles have less than 50,000 on them it's Evans is nothing more than a fluid change 60,000 plus the system should be clean with a chemical flush to ensure removal of all the original antifreeze and corrosion that has built up over the last 12 to 13 years. For example IF the Jeep blew the head gasket and has more than 100.000 miles I would not suggest the conversion if only 1 head gasket is fixed. Potential is for the other too blow in the foreseeable future and loose or contaminate the balance of Evans Coolant in the system. This could also happen quicker due to the low surface tension that make Evans High Performance work.
Although Evans High Performance Coolant does not generate pressure like waterbased coolant the water pump still generated pressure moving the coolant though the system. System pressure can be less overall but not to the point it will solve a design problem. There is the potential to lower the pressure cap setting but this must be done carefully and if a low pressure cap is not available it can not be done correctly.

Operating Temperature

Will Evans coolant lower or raise the  operating temperature?

Depending on what the aapplication is it will normally run about the same temperature as 50/50 antifreeze. Pleas describe your current application for a better insight to what Evans can do. Vehicle type, year, engine size and horsepower, radiator type, temperature range it currently runs.

Prep Fluid

I have a 2009 chevy silverado 5.3. How much prep fluid will i need not sure how much fluid my truck holds

Key to the 5.3L Chevy is the block drains there is 1 on each side, they have a hex socket type plug. Remove them, drain the radiator and the heater core blowout with shop vac (high volume air) and you do not need Prep Fluid. Or 1 to 2 gallons of Prep Fluid will do the perfect  conversion buy just pouring it into the system (block drains open)  after the initial draining. Let it work it's way to the block drains without running the engine and blow it out as before. This can be done with the heater core and the radiator. 

System capacity is between 4 and 5 gallons pending your exact application. Without removal of the block drains you will need 5 to 6 gallons of Prep Fluid due to the 5.3L being a V8 the system does not drain completely below the water pump. System capacity is between 4 and 5 gallons pending your exact application. Drain all the components, blow out the system with high volume air,  fill with Prep Fluid run up to normal operating temperature to get the thermostat open, allow to cool, drain and blow out the Prep Fluid. Might have to be done a second time depending how much you drained the first time. Suggest measuring what you drain initially to have a good idea of the drained capacity and the quantity remaining. Then fill with Evans High Performance Coolant. Do not forget to drain the expansion tank!